Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Route guide to Peak Asan (4230 m) via the Northwest Wall, category 5B difficulty, detailing the technical and tactical actions of the team.

Ascent Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley.
  3. Peak Asan (4230 m), via the 3rd buttress of the NW wall, Alperin's route.
  4. Category 5B difficulty.
  5. Height difference 850 m, length 950 m, length of climbing sections IV–V (4b–5a) cat. diff. – 230 m, length of climbing sections VI (5b–6a) cat. diff. – 455 m, length of climbing sections VII (6a+/6b) cat. diff. – 235 m, additionally – aid climbing A1 – 20 m, A2 – 90 m.
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First ascent of Peak 4230 m (Asan) via the Western wall buttress in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay, grade 5B complexity.

Passport

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
  3. Peak 4230 m (Asan), via the spur of the Western wall.
  4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
  5. Height difference 820 m, route length 1100 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 530 m, including 140 m of 6th category.
  6. Average slope of the route is 63°, up to the ridge it's 70°.
  7. Number of pitons used: Rock pitons 130/26, bolt pitons 2/1, chocks 91/14
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Ascent by the "Odessa" mountaineering club to Asan peak via the western counterfort, category 5B difficulty level, third first ascent.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock class
  2. Turkestan Range, Karavshin river valley, Karasu gorge
  3. Peak Asan via western spur
  4. Category 5B, third ascent
  5. Height difference 690 m, length 710 m, length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 460 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 72°
  6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Reused bolt pitons | Nuts | | :--- | :----------------- | :--- | | 94 | 2 | 70 |
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Description of the route through the right part of the western wall of Peak Asan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay, category 5B complexity.

  1. Climbing category — rock.
  2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karasu river valley.
  3. Summit — Peak Asan (4230 m), right part of the western wall.
  4. Proposed route — 5B category of difficulty, Alperin route variant.
  5. Route length — 1200 m. Height difference — 880 m. N-T Pleskacheva 2nd. Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty — 690 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route (3420–4130 m) — 78°. Sections of 6th category of difficulty: 82° (3480–3550 m), 80° (3570–3610 m), 86° (3685–3765 m).
  6. Pitons hammered: rock (75/32), bolt (4/4), chocks (128/61), skyhooks (5/5).
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Report on the ascent of the FA SPb team to the summit of Asan (4230 m) via the left part of the W wall, complexity category 5B.

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2021 (high-altitude technical class) Report on the ascent to the summit of Asan (4230 m) via the left part of the E wall, 5B category The route was completed by the team of the Alpine Federation of St. Petersburg

Ascent Passport

  1. Gissaro-Alay, Karavshin valley Section No. 5.4.3 of the classifier for mountain peak routes
  2. Asan peak, 4230 m, via the left part of the E wall (M. Gorbenko route, 1988)
  3. Category: 5B
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Height difference: ~700 m
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Route to the summit of Akash-Bashi (4230 m) via the South-West wall with a description of the difficulty categories and elevation.

  1. ACAH 4230 m 43 156 4000 yr 38 37 36 35 33 32 31 2930 28 25 3700
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Description of the ascent route to the summit with a detailed analysis of the points passed and kilometers of the path.

29 25 24 23 22 21 19 18,17 16 14 13 11 9 10 9 8 6 5 4 3 2 2

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Description of a new 6A category route to the summit of Asan (4230 m) in Kyrgyzstan, climbed via the west face using artificial aids and protection.

Ascent Passport

  1. Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay
  2. Technical category
  3. Turkestan Range, Karavshin Valley, section 5.4.3.
  4. Peak Asan 4230 m, via the right part of the western wall
  5. Proposed - 6A category, first ascent
  6. Route characteristics: height difference: 930 m, length - 1050 m; length of 6A-6B category sections - 361 m; length of 5 category sections - 261 m;
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The second ascent of the NW wall of Peak Asan (4230 m) in the Pamir-Alay, category 6, made by the team of the Kharkov mountaineering club in 1988.

  1. Rock climbing
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
  3. Peak 4230 m (Asan), center of NW wall
  4. 6B, second ascent
  5. Height difference 830 m, length 1015 m, length of 5–6 sections – 865 m, of which 6 – 415 m. Average steepness – 78° (3400–4230 m), of which 6 – 85° (3540–3800 m, 3890–4000 m)
  6. Pitons driven: rock 54/35, bolted 46/7+39x, chocks 191/66, x – reuse of previously driven pitons
  7. Climbing hours 36 and days 3
  8. Overnights: 1 – four in a tent on a ledge, two in hammocks; 2 – four in a tent in a "niche", two in hammocks
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Description of the first ascent of a Category 6B route through the center of the NW face of Pik Asan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay in 1986.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
  3. Peak 4230 m (Asan), center of NW wall.
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty for the first ascent.
  5. Height difference 830 m, length 1015 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 865 m, of which 6B category — 415 m. Average slope of the route 78° (3400–4230). Of these, 6B category 85° (3540–3800, 3890–4000).
  6. Driven pitons. | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 145 | 24 | 119 |
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