Ascent Record

Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay region, Karavshin-Karasu gorge, №5,4,3 according to KVGK
Peak Asan (4230 m)
Pogorelova route via the left part of NW wall, 6A category of complexity
Route type: rock
Route elevation gain: 1000 m Route length: 1100 m Section length: V category of complexity 625 m, VI category of complexity 345 m Average steepness of the route: 78°
"Hooks" left on the route: total 2, including 2 pitons Used on the route:
- rock pitons: 125 (41)
- chocks and friends: 212 (102)
- stationary pitons: 19 (including 17 fif)
- anchor hooks: 128 (75) Total artificial points of support used: 233
Team's climbing hours:
- to the summit: 42 h
- descent: 7 h
Team leader: Krivosheev Maxim Leonidovich, MS Team members:
- Veretennin Denis Anatolievich, MS
- Kustov Andrei Viktorovich, CMS
Coaches:
- Krivosheev Maxim Leonidovich, MS
- Skaller Grigory Leontievich, CMS
Departure to the route: 7 h 15 min August 3, 2005 Reach the summit: 12 h 00 min August 6, 2005 Return to Base Camp: 20 h 35 min August 6, 2005
Organization — Irkutsk Region Alpine Federation.

Team leader: Krivosheev M.L. Coaches: Krivosheev M.L., Skaller G.L. 2005

North-east wall of Peak Asan 4230 m July 25, 2004. A — Overnight locations Climbing days — 4 Climbing hours — 42

№ sect	chocks friends	pitons	fifa	pitons scheme in UIAA skyhooks	rope length and quantity	length, steepness and complexity of sect.
1	10		5	R1	R0–R2 100 m	100 m 60IV
2	5	2	7	photo №1 R2	R2–R3 50 m	30 m 90VI
3	5	3	3			20 m 90VI
4	813		111	photo №2 R3	R3–R4 40 m	10 m 95VI A2
5	2		4			10 m 85VI
6	3	212	2			10 m 95VI A1
7	4			R4		10 m 80V
8	2	2	2		R4–R5 50 m	15 m 85VI
9	7	1				20 m 85VI
10	5	2	2	R5		15 m 85V
11	6	2	5	photo №3 R6	R5–R6 50 m	50 m 75V
12	10			photo №4	R6–R7 45 m	20 m 80V
13	515	212				10 m 85VI A1
14	818		212	photo №5		10 m 95VI A2
15	313	212				5 m 90VI A2
16	212	313		R7	R7–R8 45 m	10 m 90VI A2
17	717	111	313			10 m 85VI A2
18	111	212	515			10 m 90VI A3
19	10\10		313			10 m 90VI A3
20	313	212	414	photo №6 R8	R8–R9 45 m	15 m 95VI A2
21	616	212	515			12 m 90VI A1
22			313	717		10 m 95VI A3
23	313		212	313		8 m 90VI A2
24	515		111			50 m 90VI A2
25	20120	10\10	10\10	111	photo №8 R9
26	414	10\10	30\30		R10 R10–R11 50 m	50 m 92VI A3
27	212	212	313	212	photo №9 R11 R11–R12 45 m	10 m 90VI A1
28	20120	414	515			30 m 90VI A2
29						5 m 40
30	10				R12 R12–R13 50 m	30 m 75V
31	5	3	313	photo №10 R12		15 m 85VI
32	1	1				5 m 75V
33	5	2	3	2	R13 R13–R14 50 m	30 m 80V
34	5	1	4			20 m 80V
35		4	6	R14	R14–R15 45 m	30 m 85V
36	10			R15		15 m 85V
37	20	30	10	photo №11 R19	R15–R19 200 m	200 m 60V
38	10	20	10	1 photo №12 R22	R19–R22 150 m	150 m 70V

Route Description

Section №1. Wide inner corner. Many loose rocks. Medium complexity rocks.

№2. The wall section of the route begins. Inner corner consisting of overhanging flakes. We use friends and chocks. Old pitons are encountered.

№3. Vertical chimney, passable by free climbing. Good ledge for belay.

№4. Overhanging inner corner with a small ledge, which is bypassed to the right. Large friends are used for passage.

№5. Small inner corner, passed by free climbing. Anchor hooks are used for belay.

№6. Wide chimney tapering upwards. A plug at the top of the chimney forms a small overhang, which is passed on ATO. Old pitons are encountered.

№7. Fifteen-meter section of the inner corner is passed by free climbing. There is a small ledge for a belay station 1.5 m to the left.

№8. Continuing inner corner ends with a ledge. We swing right to another inner corner. Climbing is complex, using friends, chocks, and anchor hooks for belay.

№9, 10. Almost vertical inner corner consists of a series of flakes turning into an overhang. Climbing is complex. The overhang is bypassed to the left. The continuation of the corner leads to an uncomfortable belay spot.

№11. The rock becomes less steep. The inner corner leads to a huge ledge (top of OGURTSA). Friends are used for passage. We set up a tent on the ledge at 15:00.

№12. Twenty-meter slab with a crack of the same size is passed by free climbing. Friends and chocks of 2 and 3 sizes are actively used.

№13, 14. Inner corner turning into an overhanging flake. Passed on ATO. Friends and old pitons are helpful. We move to the left side of the flake.

№15. We enter another inner corner and make a hanging belay station at the end.

№16. New inner corner gradually turning into a flake.

№17. Overhanging flake going to the right. Friends and anchor hooks are helpful.

№18. At the end of the flake, we pass a small ledge, followed by a small wall. Climbing is extremely complex.

№19, 20. Not clearly defined inner corner turning into a flake. Climbing is complex, on the verge of a fall. The flake ends with a small ledge, under which we organize a hanging belay station.

№21. We swing left for 5 m to a vertical inner corner. Along the corner, we approach a sloping meter-long ledge, which is passed head-on.

№22. Vertical wall is passed from right to left. The wall leads to a small ledge with pitons.

№23. Overhanging slab is passed using anchor hooks and small friends.

№24. Inner corner turning into a flake. Friends and chocks are used. We organize a belay station.

№25. Vertical 50 m slab is passed along a 2–3 cm wide crack using friends and chocks. The belay station is hanging.

№26. Continuation of the vertical slab. The crack has narrowed to 0.5–1.0 cm. Everything is done on ATO using fif, anchor hooks, and channels. The belay station is hanging.

№27. Flake expanding upwards. Large friends are helpful during passage. After 10 m, the flake ends with a 2 m long and 25 cm wide ledge. We hammered two stationary pitons and organized a hanging overnight stay on them.

№28. Swing 5 m to the left. Then up along a wide inner corner under a ledge. The ledge is bypassed to the right. Climbing using ATO.

№29. Exit to a sloping ledge. Good spot for a belay station.

№30. Wide 30 m chimney is passed by free climbing.

№31. The chimney becomes almost vertical. At the exit from the chimney, there is a plug, for which ATO is used.

№32. Inner 5 m corner with a good belay spot at the end.

№33. 30 m slab with many cracks is passed by free climbing.

№34. Vertical 20 m chimney leads to a small sloping ledge. Good spot for a belay station.

№35. Almost vertical slab, passed from right to left, rests on a small ledge. Complex free climbing, with good cracks for friends.

№36. Ten-meter inner corner leads to the eastern ridge. Friends are used for belay.

№37. 200 m up the eastern wall is passed along inner corners alternating with small slabs. Climbing is complicated by wet rocks and icy sections in some places. We reached a 1 m wide sloping ledge and organized an overnight stay.

№38. Along inner corners, the steepness of which gradually increases, we reach the summit at 12:00. The weather is good. Descent via 4B. At 19:00, we descended from the wall. At 20:00, we were back at Base Camp.