Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the first ascent of a Category 6B route through the center of the left bastion on the north wall of Peak Sabah (5300 m) in the Pamir-Alay range.

World Alpine Championship

In the technical class

Report

on the ascent of Sabakh Peak (5300 m) via the center of the left bastion of the north face (first ascent, proposed 6B category) by the Russian national team

Climbing Passport

  1. Region: Pamir-Alay, Lyaylyak valley area, Ashat valley, section 5.4.2 in the 2012 classification table
  2. Peak, route: Sabakh Peak, 5300 m, via the center of the left bastion of the north face, first ascent
  3. Category: proposed 6B
  4. Route type: combined
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Report on the first ascent of a category 6B route through the center of the left bastion of the north face of Sabakh Peak (5300 m) in the Pamir-Alay.

World Alpine Championship

in the technical class

Report

on the ascent of Sabakh Peak (5300 m) via the center of the left buttress of the N wall (first ascent, category 6B proposed) by the Russian national team

Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Pamir-Alai, Lyaylyak valley area, Ashat valley, section 5.4.2 in the 2012 classification table
  2. Peak, route: Sabakh Peak, 5300 m, via the center of the left buttress of the N wall, first ascent
  3. Category: 6B proposed
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Report on the first ascent to the Svarog peak via the center of the big cornice, cat. 6B, in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.

Moscow Alpine Championship 2014 High-altitude Technical Class

Report

On the first ascent of Svarog peak (4960 m) "Along the center of the Big Cornice" approximately 6B category of difficulty. "SKA Zelenograd" team from August 6 to 15, 2014. Moscow 2014

Ascent Passport

  1. Class — technical.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ashat gorge.
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Description of the first ascent route and traverse of Ashat Wall in the Turkestan Range, 6B difficulty grade.

Passport

  1. Class of traverses
  2. Turkestan Range, Achat gorge
  3. Achatskaya wall (peaks 4700–4750–4810–Sabakh)
  4. Assumed 6B, first ascent
  5. Route characteristics: A. Initial ascent route to peak 4700: Elevation gain — 950 m Length — 1445 m Length of sections with V–VI difficulty — 830 m
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Report on the first ascent via the center of the North wall of SvaroG peak (5005 m), 6B category of complexity, located in the Ashat gully of the Turkestan Range.

Russian Mountaineering Championship

high-altitude technical class 2021

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Svarog, 5005 m, via the center of the North face 6B category of difficulty, first ascent by a combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai, Novosibirsk, and Moscow For the period 10.08.2021–14.08.2021 2021

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Report on the first ascent of the 4818 m peak via a Category 5B difficulty route.

Report

On the first ascent of the peak 4818 m (Peak Ostroy) via the route 5B cat. diff. by a team from Krasnoyarsk and Perm regions from August 4 to 5, 2021

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderPopova Marina Evgenievna, MS
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsDyupina Maria, MS, Oleneva Nadezhda, MS
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Report on the first ascent of a Category 5B route through the center of the southeast wall of Pik Ostriy (4,818 m) in the Ortochashma gorge.

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship

High-altitude technical class

2022

Report

On the first ascent

to the summit of Peak Ostry 4818 m via the center of the southeast wall, category 5B (proposed), by a team from St. Petersburg from August 4, 2022, to August 6, 2022.

I. Climbing passport

1. General information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderIlya Mikhailovich Zhdanov, 1st sports rank
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Description of the first ascent to the summit 4750 via the North Ridge, complexity category 5B, with a detailed analysis of the route and technical details.

  1. Climbing category — technical
  2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, KTM TV 5.4
  3. Peak 4750 (p. LOMO) — via the North Ridge, combined route, first ascent
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
  5. Length — 1950 m including: length of 5–6 difficulty category — 400 m, including 6 difficulty category — 75 m. Average steepness of the main part — 64°. Height difference — 1150 m.
  6. Pitons driven:
    • rock: 46/4
    • chocks: 59/0
    • bolt: 1/0
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Ascent certificate for Bryashina peak (4750 m) via the North Ridge, category 5B, third ascent.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
  3. Peak 4750 (p.LOMO), via the North Ridge, combined route, third ascent.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Length — 1950 m
    • Length of sections with II–IV difficulty category — 400 m
    • Of which VI difficulty category — 75 m
    • Average steepness of the wall section — 64°
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Description of a category 5A route to Peak Asan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range, climbed in 1988.

Passport

  1. Rock climbing.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
  3. Peak Asan (4230 m) from the east.
  4. Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference: 630 m, wall section – 450 m. Length of wall section – 555 m. Average steepness of wall section – 69°.
  6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice screws |
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