Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the first ascent of Peak 4230 via the North-West wall, category 6B difficulty level, carried out in 1986 by a team led by Sergey Moroz.

I. Rock Class

  1. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-su gorge
  2. Peak "4230", via the Northwest wall
  3. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
  4. Height difference 880 m, length 1153 m
  5. Length of sections with 6B category of difficulty 713 m, 5B category of difficulty 100 m Average slope of the route 70°, average slope of the wall part 80°
  6. Number of driven pitons: rock 148/35, chocks 253/72, bolt 14/10, ice 0/0
  7. Number of climbing hours 65, days 5
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Report on the first ascent of the right part of the Northwest wall of Pik Asan (4230 m) in Pamir-Alai, 6A category of difficulty.

Ascent Report

of the team of the Odessa Alpine Club to the peak Asan (4230 m) via the right part of the Northwest wall (first ascent). CIS Championship (EASC) in Alpinism. High-altitude and technical ascents class. Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, August 2007. Odessa – 2007.

Ascent Passport

  1. Pamir-Alai, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3
  2. peak Asan, 4230 m, via the right part of the NW wall.
  3. Claimed – 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Height difference of the route: 930 m (3300–4230). Route length: 1040 m.
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Description of the route of 6th d.iff. of the first ascent of Asan peak (4230 m) via the right side of the NW wall in the Pamir-Alay with a detailed tactical plan and details of the ascent.

PASSPORT I. Rock class 2. Pamir-Alai, Karasu gorge 3. V. Asan (4230 m) via the right part of the N wall 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1030 m, length - 1435 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 630 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 70° (3300-4150 m), including 6B category of difficulty 36° (3400-3700 m); 81° (3300-3360 m). 6. Used on the route: rock pitons - 8/0, bolt pitons - 13/8, chocks - 220/37. 7. Climbing hours - 45, days - 4.5 (including descent).

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Ascent record of Peak Asan via Timofeev's Route, category 6A; route description, team itinerary.

Ascent Passport

  1. Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3
  2. Peak Asan, Timofeev's route through the center of the NW wall.
  3. 6A category of difficulty
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Route elevation gain: 930 m (3300–4230)
  6. Route length: 1110 m Length of sections: cat. diff. V — 215 m, cat. diff. VI — 635 m. Average slope: main part of the route — 80°, entire route — 70°. Hooks left on the route: total — 2; incl. bolted — 2.
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Route on the northwest wall of Peak Asan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay, climbed in 1988 by a team led by Anatoly Moshnikov.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock class
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Su gorge
  3. Peak Asan 4230 m, via the right part of the northwest wall
  4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty, 2nd ascent
  5. Height difference — 960 m, length — 1445 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 700 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 74° (3420–4050 m) Including 6th category: 80° (3460–3500, 3520–3610, 3710–3760, 3890–3960), 85° (3640–3710), 95° (3960–3965), 100° (3610–3620)
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Description of the passage of a category 6B route to the summit of Asan (Turkestan Range) by a team of climbers in 1991.

Passport

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley.
  3. Peak Asan Northeast wall (Timofeev's route).
  4. 6B category of difficulty.
  5. Height difference 750 m, length 1225 m. Length of sections:
  • VI–475 m
  • V–190 m
  • IV–130 m
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Ascent certificate for the summit of Asan via the 6B category route up the center of the NW wall, featuring a detailed description and photographs.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region, gorges: Turkestan Range, Karavshin. 5.4.3.
  2. Name of the peak: Asan, route name: via the center of NW wall (Timofeev 1988). 4230 m.
  3. Proposed: 6B category of difficulty.
  4. Route character: rock.
  5. Route height difference: 1330 m, maximum 500 m. Route length: 1391 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty 300 m, VI category of difficulty 545 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 77°, total route 73°.
  6. "Hooks" left on the route:
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Report on the ascent made by the MSU Alpine Club team to Peak Asan via the Timofeev route, rated as Category 6A.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Pik Asan via the Timofeev route, 6A category of difficulty, by the MSU alpine club team from August 14 to 19, 2019.

I. Climbing Report

1. General information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderSaveliev Igor Borisovich, Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsKhrabrov Kuzma Andreevich, 1st sports rank, Afanasiev Georgiy Sergeevich, 1st sports rank, Burov Pavel Aleksandrovich, 1st sports rank
1.3Full name of coachSaveliev Igor Borisovich
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Description of the ascent via a category 6 route on the Northwest wall of Pik Asan (4230 m) in the Pamir-Alai mountains, achieved by a team from the Nevsky district alpine club of Leningrad in 1988.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent type — rock 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge 3. Peak Asan (4230 m) — via the "mirror" of the NW wall. Category IIIV 5.4. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference — 830 m of which: wall — 780 m Total length — 1120 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1020 m of which: 6th category — 845 m (3400–3680, 3720–3940, 3990–4110, 4140–4180)

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### Second Ascent of Peak Asan (4204 m) Wall in Pamir-Alay Details the tactics and technical maneuvers employed by the team during the second ascent via a Category III route (6B complexity).

PASSPORT

  1. Rock climbing
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley
  3. Peak Asan, 4204 m
  4. Second ascent, 6B category difficulty
  5. Elevation gain — 865 m, length — 1075 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 975 m, including 6B category difficulty — 830 m. Average slope of the route (3340–4204) — 77°. Average slope of the wall section of the route (3340–4120) — 80°.
  6. Pitons hammered in | Rock | Chocks | Bolt | Ice | | :--: | :---: | :--: | :-: |
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