Passport
I. Class of rock climbing ascents. 2. Zaalaysky range, Turkestan Range, Kara-su river gorge. 3. Peak: peak 4230 from the West along the wall. (ASAN) 4. Proposed — 6 cat. diff., first ascent. 5. Height difference — 890 m, length — 1188 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 826 m, length of sections 6 cat. diff. — 654 m, average steepness of the main part — 79°, average steepness of sections R4–R53 — 81°, average steepness of sections R31–R53 — 83°. 6. Pitons driven
| Rock pitons | Chocks | Bolts |
|---|---|---|
| 124/47 | 264/109 | 45/37 |
- Team's travel hours — 85 h, days — 7.
- Overnight stays: lying on ledges.
- Leader: Pogorelov Alexander Grigorievich, Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:
- Pyatnitsin Alexander Alekseevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Galagan Alexander Grigorievich, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Gazarbekyan Arshak Georgievich, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Coach: Shamraevsky Yuri Mikhailovich II. Departure to the route: July 3, 1986. Summit: July 9, 1986. Return: July 10, 1986.
Photo 1. General photo of peak 4230 m. July 4, 1986, 18:00. "Helios" lens/44, focal length 58 mm. Shooting height 3400 m. Distance to the object 900 m. Shooting point # 1. — — — team's route.
Photo 2. Profile of the wall on the right. July 5, 1986, 18:30. "Mir"-1 lens. Focal length 35 mm. Distance to the object 400 m. Shooting height 3200 m. Shooting point # 2. — — — team's route.
Photo 3. Profile of the wall on the left. July 5, 1986, 15:00. "Telemar-22" lens. Focal length 200 mm. Shooting height 3600 m. Distance to the object 3000 m. Shooting point # 3. — — — team's route.
| Rock pitons | Chocks | Bolts | Sky-hook | Sky-hook under bolt holes | Route scheme | Section number | Length, m | Steepness, ° | Cat. diff. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 3 | - | - | - | R12–R13 | 20 | 70 | V | |
| 3 | 8 | - | - | - | R11–R12 | 40 | 75 | V | |
| 1 | 3 | - | - | - | R10–R11 | 8 | 80 | VI | |
| 3/3 | 2/2 | 1/1 | 1 | 1 | R9–R10 | 12 | 80 | VI | |
| 2/10 | 10 | R8–R9 | 17 | 80 | VI | ||||
| 1 | 32 | - | - | - | R7–R8 | 5 | 95 | VI | |
| 1 | 5 | - | - | - | R6–R7 | 15 | 80 | VI | |
| 1 | 2 | R5–R6 | 6 | 80 | VI | ||||
| 2/2 | 3/1 | - | 1 | - | R4–R5 | 12 | 80 | VI | |
| R3–R4 | 15 | 15 | V | ||||||
| 1 | 1 | - | - | - | R2–R3 | 6 | 70 | V | |
| 3 | 4 | - | - | - | R1–R2 | 50 | 60 | III | |
| 5 | 6 | - | - | - | R0–R1 | 40 | 70 | V | |
| 6/6 | 17/17 | - | - | - | R29–R30 | 30 | 80 | VI | |
| 10/9 | 25/23 | - | - | - | R28–R29 | 45 | 90 | VI | |
| - | 4 | - | - | R27–R28 | 6 | 90 | VI | ||
| - | 271 | 2.5 | 1 | 3 | R26–R27 | 7 | 85 | VI | |
| - | 1.1 | 4.4 | - | 4 | R24–R25 | 8 | 90 | VI | |
| 112 | - | 111 | - | - | R23–R24 | 3 | 92 | VI | |
| 12.5 | 31.42 | 4/1 | 1 | 1 | Travel hours 12 h 07 min. Overnight stay on ledge R15–R16 | 102 | |||
| 1 | 2 | 1 | - | - | R22–R23 | 6 | 85 | VI | |
| 3/2 | 13/6 | 1 | R21–R22 | 30 | 85 | VI | |||
| 3/3 | 2/2 | 2 | 1 | R20–R21 | 15 | 85 | VI | ||
| 2 | R19–R20 | 5 | 85 | VI | |||||
| 8/4 | 1 | - | - | R18 | 20 | 85–90 | VI | ||
| 3 | 3 | - | - | - | R17–R18 | 10 | 75 | VI | |
| - | 3 | - | - | R16–R17 | 16 | 70 | V | ||
| 30.7 | 5.7 | 1/1 | 2 | 1 | July 3, 1986. Travel hours 14 | 290 | |||
| 1 | 2 | 4 | 20 | I | |||||
| 1 | 1 | - | - | - | R14–R15 | 20 | 65 | III | |
| 3 | 4 | - | - | - | R13–R14 | 20 | 70 | V | |
| - | 13 | 10 | R42–R43 | 20 | 75 | VI | |||
| 1/3 | 9/1 | 13/11 | 2 | 10 | July 7, 1986. Travel hours 10. Overnight stay on ledge R44–R15, R36–R37 | 90 | |||
| - | 11 | - | 10 | R42–R43 | 20 | 75 | VI | ||
| 31 | 1 | 2 | R41–R42 | 12 | 70 | VI | |||
| 4 | 2 | 2 | - | R40–R41 | 18 | 70 | VI | ||
| 1 | 2 | - | - | R39–R40 | 5 | 65 | III | ||
| 2 | - | R38–R39 | 5 | 95 | VI | ||||
| 4 | 4 | 3 | July 6, 1986. Travel hours 11 h 50 min | R37–R38 | 30 | 90 | VI | ||
| 170 | 44 | 112 | |||||||
| 29 | 2 | 1 | - | - | R36–R37 | 5 | 20 | I | |
| 1 | 1 | - | - | - | R35–R36 | 5 | 92 | VI | |
| 7 | - | 1 | R34–R35 | 30 | 90 | VI | |||
| 1 | 3 | - | - | - | R33–R34 | 5 | 92 | VI | |
| 12 | 30 | R32–R33 | 57 | 91 | VI | ||||
| 10 | 28 | ||||||||
| 2 | 31 | 4 | 4 | 3 | R31–R32 | 10 | 85 | VI | |
| 17 | 47 | 9 | 6 | 9 | July 5, 1986. Travel hours 12 h 50 min. R15 checkpoint on the middle of the section | 109 | |||
| - | 3 | - | 2 | - | R30–R31 | 8 | 70 | VI | |
| 4 | 9 | - | - | - | R53–R54 | 90 | 55 | III | |
| 2 | - | - | - | - | R52–R53 | 4 | 95 | VI | |
| 1 | - | - | - | - | R51–R52 | 6 | 70 | V | |
| 3/1 | 2 | - | - | - | R50–R51 | 5 | 95 | VI | |
| 3 | 4 | - | - | - | R49–R50 | 35 | 70 | VI | |
| 1 | 4 | - | - | - | R48–R49 | 8 | 90 | VI | |
| 2 | 6 | - | - | - | R47–R48 | 35 | 70 | VI | |
| 2/1 | 6/1 | - | - | - | R46–R47 | 22 | 70 | VI | |
| 7/5 | 24/13 | 14/14 | 10 | July 8, 1986. Travel hours 11 h 50 min. Overnight stay on ledge R36–R37 | 80 | ||||
| 5/5 | 10/6 | - | - | - | R45–R46 | 23 | 80 | VI | |
| - | 3/3 | 1/1 | - | - | R44–R45 | 5 | 95 | VI | |
| 2 | 14/4 | R43–R44 | 32 | 90–91 | VI | ||||
| 124/47 | 264/109 | 45/37 | 6/34 | Total travel hours 85 | 1188 | ||||
| 27/46 | - | - | July 9, 1986. Travel hours 13. Overnight stay on ledge R59–R60 | 395 | |||||
| 1 | 4 | - | - | - | R59–R60 | 10 | 20 | I | |
| 2 | 1 | - | - | - | R58–R59 | 40 | 65–70 | IV | |
| 2 | - | - | - | - | R57–R58 | 40 | 20 | III | |
| 2 | 6 | - | - | - | R56–R57 | 30 | 30 | II | |
| 2 | 4 | - | - | - | R55–R56 | 40 | 60 | IV | |
| R54–R55 | 30 | 70 | V |
Route description by sections
R0–R1. Monolithic slabs with wide cracks. Free climbing. Protection through large chocks and pitons. R1–R2. Simple monolithic rocks. Piton and chock protection. R2–R3. Steep wall. Free climbing. Piton protection. R3–R4. Narrow ledge with an overhang. R4–R5. Monolithic slabs with a narrow crack. A.I.D. Protection and A.I.D. using horizontal and vertical pitons. At the end of the section — a belay station. R5–R6. Difficult pendulum across smooth slabs to the left to a crack. R6–R7. Crack. Passed by free climbing. Climbing is tense. Protection through large chocks. At the end of the section — a belay station. R7–R8. Overhang. Used A.I.D. on medium-sized chocks. R8–R9. Inner corner with a crack in the center. Smooth on the sides. Passed using A.I.D. Medium chocks. R9–R10. Smooth slab. Limited protection options. Possible use of thin short pitons. Used "sky-hook". Climbing is difficult, tense, A.I.D. R10–R11. Crack running from right to left. Free tense climbing. At the end of the section — a hanging belay station, as well as all on the "finger". R11–R12. Two parallel cracks. Tense but varied climbing. Protection — through large chocks and channels. R12–R13. Crack. Free climbing. Large chocks are in place. R13–R14. Narrow chimney. Smooth on the sides. Free climbing in a straddle. Large chocks and channels are in place. At the end of the section — a belay station. R14–R15. Gentle slabs. R15–R16. Ledge. On the ledge — a good bivouac. Control tour. R16–R17. Wide crack. Free climbing. Large chocks. R17–R18. Small inner corner. Difficult tense climbing. At the end of the section — a belay station. R18–R19. Very steep inner corner with a wide crack like a flake. Smooth on the sides. Passed partially by free climbing, partially with A.I.D. R19–R20. Exit from the inner corner, then left up along a small inner corner. Difficult tense climbing, partially A.I.D. R20–R21. Indistinct small inner corner leading to a small ledge. Here is a belay station. R21–R22. Wall with an indistinct crack-flake. Climbing is difficult and very tense. In the upper part, A.I.D. Medium-sized chocks and pitons are used. R22–R23. Pendulum across smooth slabs to an inner corner. Up it to an overhang. Here is a hanging belay station. Used a bolt and medium chocks. R23–R24. Overhang. Used a bolt and thin horizontal pitons. R24–R25. Steep smooth wall without cracks. For passage, bolts and "sky-hook" under bolt holes were used. From here on, bolts were driven from a platform. R25–R26. Overhanging slab. Passed head-on using A.I.D. on "friend" chocks. R26–R27. Smooth steep slab. For passage, "sky-hook" under bolt holes and bolts were used. R27–R28. Steep crack running from right to left. Free tense climbing. Throws off. Protection through large chocks. At the end of the section — a hanging belay station. R28–R29. Wide crack narrowing to the width of a piton at the top. Steep smooth slabs on the sides with a steepness of 90°. Passed entirely on A.I.D. Medium and small chocks and pitons are in place. In the middle of the section — a hanging belay station. R29–R30. Same crack. Steepness decreases to 80°. R30–R31. Traverse to the left using a pendulum. Smooth slabs without cracks. For organizing a hanging belay station, bolts were used in the middle of the corner. Then — a transition to a small ledge. Used "sky-hook" under bolt holes. R31–R32. At the beginning of the section on a small ledge — a belay station. Further wall, initially smooth, then has cracks. Passed partially with A.I.D., partially by climbing. R32–R33. Crack, smooth on the sides. In some places overhangs. Passed entirely with A.I.D. Medium and small chocks and channel pitons are in place. In the middle of the section — a hanging belay station. R33–R34. Overhanging crack. Passed by free climbing. Large chocks. Climbing is difficult, throws off. At the end of the section — a hanging belay station. R34–R35. Two parallel wide cracks. Tense climbing. Protection through large chocks. R35–R36. Steep wall. Move from left to right and exit to a ledge. On the ledge — a convenient belay station. To the right along the ledge after 10 m — a comfortable overnight stay. R36–R37. Wide inclined ledge. Here is an overnight stay. R37–R38. Wide chimney. Passed by free climbing. R38–R39. Overhang in the chimney. Passed by free climbing. Climbing is difficult, piton protection. R39–R40. Inclined ledge. On the ledge — a belay station. R40–R41. Smooth slabs with a limited number of cracks and holds. Climbing on friction. "Sky-hook" is used. R41–R42. Ascent with a traverse to the right. Smooth slabs with one crack. In the middle part, A.I.D. R42–R43. Smooth slabs without holds and cracks. Entirely A.I.D. Bolts. "Sky-hook" under bolt holes. At the end of the section — a belay station on a small ledge. R43–R44. Slightly overhanging split. Passed by free climbing. Climbing is tense but interesting. Partially passed with A.I.D. Protection mainly through large and medium chocks. In the middle of the section on a small ledge — a belay station. R44–R45. Overhanging smooth slab without holds. Under the overhang — a crack. Inside destroyed. Passed on A.I.D. Used one bolt, "friend" chocks. R45–R46. Crack, smooth on the sides. In the lower part narrow and shallow. In the upper part expands into a crack. In the lower part, thin short pitons are in place. In the middle part — small and medium chocks, A.I.D. R46–R47. Crack. Passed by free climbing. Climbing is tense. In the lower part, A.I.D. Protection through medium chocks and pitons. At the end of the section — a hanging belay station. R47–R48. Wall leading to an overhang. Passed by free climbing. R48–R49. Steep wall with an overhang at the top. Overhang passed on the left. Climbing is difficult. Protection through medium-sized chocks and pitons. At the end of the section under the overhang — a hanging belay station. R49–R50. Smooth slab. Free climbing on friction. R50–R51. Overhanging slab. Passed partially with A.I.D., partially by free climbing. At the end of the section — a belay station. Protection from a platform. R51–R52. Inclined ledge before the second overhang. Rocks are wet due to water flowing from above. Climbing is tense. R52–R53. Overhang. Passed head-on by free climbing. Climbing is tense. R53–R54. Simple rocks of the third cat. diff. R54–R55. Rocky ascent. Relief, somewhat destroyed rocks of the fifth cat. diff. R55–R56. Slabs of IV cat. diff., leading to a ridge. R56–R57. Easy ridge. R57–R58. Implicit ledge. R58–R59. Slightly snow-covered rocky ascent leading to a pre-summit shoulder. Here is an overnight stay. R59–R60. Easy ridge leading to the summit.
Photo 9. Passage of section R17–R18. July 4, 10:00. "Triplet" lens, focal length 40 mm. Shooting point # 9.
Photo 16. Passage of the upper part of section R32–R33. July 6, 15:15. "Triplit" lens, focal length 40 mm. Shooting point # 16.