Ascent Passport

Technical class.
Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley.
Peak Asan (4230 m), via the 3rd buttress of the NW wall, Alperin's route.
Category 5B difficulty.
Height difference 850 m, length 950 m, length of climbing sections IV–V (4b–5a) cat. diff. – 230 m, length of climbing sections VI (5b–6a) cat. diff. – 455 m, length of climbing sections VII (6a+/6b) cat. diff. – 235 m, additionally – aid climbing A1 – 20 m, A2 – 90 m. Average steepness of the route – 65°, steepness of the wall section – 75°.
Pitons hammered:

rock: chocks/cams: bolted:
- 4/2*
- 279/0
- 0/6*
* – previously hammered
Team's climbing hours – 28 hours, 4 days, ascent and descent on the day of reaching the summit.
Overnights: one semi-reclined and 2 reclined (on ledges).
Leader Kopteva Marina Vladimirovna, Master of Sports, Kiev.

Participants
- Grigoryeva Natalia Vladimirovna, Candidate for Master of Sports, Moscow.
Coach Tinin Yuri Pavlovich, Candidate for Master of Sports, Moscow.
Route entry 5 August 2007,

Summit 7 August 2007, Return 8 August 2007.
Moscow City Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing. ¹ – cat. diff. climbing grades are given according to the UIAA system (French equivalent in parentheses). General photo of Asan wall

Route Photos

Route photos in profile

Team's Technical and Tactical Actions

After completing two routes of 5th and 6th category complexity over two weeks, the group was ready for the ascent. The departure was scheduled for August 5. The route was planned to be completed in 4 days. Provisions, water, and equipment were taken according to the route's nature and reports from the Russian Mountaineering Federation's archive.

The group approached the route on August 5 at 13:00. At 14:00, they began processing, hanging 3 ropes (140 m). At 18:00, the group descended for an overnight stay under the route.

The next day, they started at 6:00. They completed the fixed ropes by 7:30. They covered 4 ropes (175 m) that day. They reached a ledge suitable for an overnight stay for two people. The overnight stay was semi-reclined.

On August 6, the weather was good. They started climbing at 8:30. By 14:00, they were at the planned overnight location. Weather conditions – snow. They processed another 30 meters and stopped for the night. A total of 4 ropes (160 m) that day.

On August 7, they started climbing at 8:30 am, with good weather, and it was cold. By 18:50, they were on the ridge. The summit was reached at 19:30. They spent the night on the summit.

On August 8, at 7:00, they began their descent towards the saddle and were back at the Base Camp (БЛ) by 14:00. The route was completed without any falls. Key sections were climbed using free climbing and aid climbing. The first climber worked on a double rope, and the second climber ascended via the fixed ropes with top-rope protection. The load was pulled up using a block.

R0–R3 – Kopteva. R3–R5 – Kopteva. R5–R6 – Grigoryeva. R6–R7 – Kopteva. R7–R10 – Grigoryeva. R10–summit – Kopteva.

They took 9 liters of water for the route, calculated at one and a half liters per person per day.

Nutrition:

Hot meals in the morning and evening
Individual snacks during the day

The combined rescue team was on duty under the route, and communication was maintained using portable radios.

Route Description by Sections

R0–R1: From a large scree ledge, climb up and left through a large internal corner to a ledge. (50 m, 60°, V+).

R1–R2: From the ledge, climb straight up through a system of cracks to a small chimney and exit to a ledge via the left wall of the chimney. (40 m, 60°, VI, 5 m, 90°, VI+).

R2–R3: From the ledge, descend to the base of the chimney and climb it (35 m, 80°, VI+) to a cornice. Traverse the cornice on the left and exit to a ledge. (5 m, 100°, A1). (End of processed sections).

R3–R4: From the ledge, climb up and left via holds. Climbing with aid. Station on a ledge. (50 m, 80°, VII–, A1).

R4–R5: From the station, climb up and left to the base of an internal corner and exit to the base of a large chimney via the internal corner and a system of holds. (50 m, 80°, VII, A2).

R5–R6: Climb the chimney using aid climbing. Station on a ledge (40 m, 90°, VII, A2).

R6–R7: From the station, climb up through the left crack under a cornice. Traverse the cornice on the right. Enter an internal corner and climb it to a ledge. Overnight stay (35 m, 80°, VI–).

R7–R8: From the station, climb up through the right crack, complex climbing to a ledge. (20 m, 80°, VII–, A1).

R8–R9: From the ledge, climb up and left to a small chimney and exit to easy rock via its right side. Climb easy rock to a ledge. Station on a ledge. (40 m, 75°, VI).

R9–R10: From the ledge, climb up and right through broken rock under an overhanging slab ending in a cornice. (35 m, 75°, VI).

R10–R11: From the ledge, climb up and right via the overhanging slab using aid climbing under a cornice (30 m, 95°, A2). Traverse the cornice on the right (5 m, 100°, A2) and exit to a ledge. (10 m, 65°, V).

R11–R12: From the ledge, climb a chimney for 35 meters until it becomes less steep. (35 m, 90°, VII–, A1).

R12–R13: From the station, climb a slab to a ledge with a bolt. (50 m, 70°, VI+).

R13–R14: From the ledge, climb an internal corner under a cornice (15 m, 90°, A2). From the cornice, traverse 4 m to an internal corner and climb it to a ledge (35 m, 75°, VI).

R14–R15: From the ledge, climb a slab to an internal corner, exit from it, and traverse 8 m left to the base of the next internal corner. (45 m, 75°, VI).

R15–R16: Climb the internal corner and a system of walls and ledges to a station on a ledge. (45 m, 65°, VI–).

R16–R17: Climb broken rock. (35 m, 70°, VI–).

R17–R18: From the station, climb 30 meters under a cornice. (30 m, 65°, V). Traverse the cornice on the left via an overhanging slab. (5 m, 95°, VI+, A1). Exit to the ridge.

R18–R19: Climb the ridge via easy rock to the summit. (200 m, 45°, II–III).

Route profile diagram Climbing grade comparison table