Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Uryam gorge 3. Peak 4800 m (Parus Vostochny) via the right part of the North-Eastern wall, rock 4. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 900 m, length — 1090 m, length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty — 305 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: base of the wall — ridge — 74° (3900–4510), base of the wall — summit — 60° (3900–4800) 6. Pitons hammered on the route Friends 74/22; rock pitons 67/32; ice screws 0/0; chocks 75/28; drilled pitons 7. Team's walking hours: 4 hours and days — 5. 8. Night stay: 0 — 2nd under the route, comfortable in a tent, 3rd — on an inclined platform, sitting, 4th — on the ridge

Parus (3rd peak), SW edge, cat. 5B 1480, 2043, 72°; 641 (39); 158 (39); 3/2; 5 days, 6 nights. 41 hours against Trench standard D. Egorov, I. Belyaev, S. Mikhailov, Ch. Khlyustikov (Masovy) from July 14 to 19, 1989 Photo-2. Route profile on the left (ridge) Taken from p. Ashat on July 13, 1989. S ≈ 5 km, H ≈ 2500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro. Photo-3. Route profile on the right (triangle) Taken from the cirque of v. Parus on July 11, 1989. S ≈ 7 km, H ≈ 3500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro.

Tactical Actions of the Team

Ministry of Sports and Tourism of the Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK REGIONAL FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2014

Class: High-Altitude Technical

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Parus Western 4850 m via the north wall. First ascent, 5B category of difficulty. Krasnoyarsk 2014.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak gorge area, Ashat gorge
2. Summit — Parus (3), 4850 m, via the center of the north wall

Ascent Log

I. Technical category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Suu gorge 3. Peak Petrogradets (5163 m) via the eastern edge from the saddle between Peak Iskander (5120) 4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1413 m, route length - 1850 m Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 820 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 70° (4190-5000), including 6 category of difficulty - 85° (4720-4760), 60° (4760-4763), 105° (4810-4815) 6. Pitons driven | Rock | Ice | Nuts | Bolts |

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karasu gorge.
3. Petrovgradets (5163 m) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Second ascent, 5B cat. sl. is assumed.
5. The length of sections with 6–5B cat. sl. is about 300 m, 5A cat. sl. is about 450 m. The average steepness of the main sections is 80–90° (4800–4900), 70–80° (4900–5000), all of them are 5–6 cat. sl.
6. Pitons hammered: rock, drilled, chocks, ice — 29, 27, 38.
7. Travel hours — 27, days — 3.
8. Two nights in a tent on the ledges.

5090 5120

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su gorge
3. Pik Petrogradets (5164 m), via the center of the southeast wall through the spall.
4. Assumed — 6A cat. tr. first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 960 m, length — 1160 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. tr. — 640 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 74° (4200–5120 m), including 6 cat. tr.:
   • 83° (4560–4600 m)
   • (4700–4940 m)
   • (5020–5060 m)

Ascent Log

Completed in the 1982 Leningrad City Alpinism Championship

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir range, Turkestan range, AkSu valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Petrogradets 5163 m via the center of the "south-east wall"
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff. (rocky)
5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200–5163 m (963 m), length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 490 m, sections with 5th cat. diff. — 395 m, sections with 6th cat. diff. — 95 m, average steepness 72°
6. Pitons driven: for insurance, rock — 122, ice — 0, bolt — 0, chocks — 39; for creating artificial anchors, rock — 29, ice — 0, bolt — 0
7. Number of climbing hours: 37 over 4 days
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 3 overnight stays — shared (2 short lying, 1 — sitting)

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Classification Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamir range, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Petrogradets, 5163 m via the center of the southeast wall 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B (2nd ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200 m – 5163 m = 963 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 490 m: 5th category — 395 m, 6th category — 95 m, average steepness 72° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 119, ice — 0, bolt — 0, placements — 42

I. Altitude-technical category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge 3. Pik Sabah, 5300 m, via the North wall 4. Proposed at 6th cat. diff., first ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1500 m, length 2120 m Length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. — 1250 m Average steepness of the wall section of the route (3800-5200 m) — 69° Sections with steepness of:

• 85° — 4130-4360 m, 4420-4470 m (6th cat. diff.)
• 80° — 4360-4420 m, 4760-4870 m