Pamir-Alay
Route Description: канту ЮВ стены
Climbing route description to the summit with a map of the area and a detailed diagram of the route passage categorized by UIAA difficulty levels.
Climbing area map
Route diagram in UIAA notation, sect. R0–R15:
- R0: 70°, 20 m, 4
- R1: 75°, 40 m, 4
- R2: 70°, 60 m, 4
- R3: 75°, 40 m, 5
- R4: 85°, 10 m, 5, 6
- R5: 70°, 100 m, 4
Route Description: СВ стене
Report on the first ascent of the North Iskander (5000 m) via the North-East wall in Pamir-Alay, category 6 difficulty level
I. Technical Class
- Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su gorge.
- Peak Sev. Iskander 5000 m via NE wall.
- Assumed – 6B, first ascent.
- Height difference 700 m, length 850 m.
- Length of sections: VI cat. diff. — 400 m. V cat. diff. — 215 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 77° (sections R0–R16, 4300–4870 m).
- Pitons driven:
rock 93/33
Bolt pitons: 17/17. Nuts: 88/73. Ice screws: 0/0.
Route Description: СЗ канту
First ascent description of Peak 5000 (Severny Iskander) via the northwestern edge in Pamir-Alay, category 6B difficulty level, with route details and team tactics.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. Technical category. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak 5000 (Severny Iskander) via the northwestern edge. 4. Proposed category: 6B, rock, first ascent. 5. Height difference — 1000 m, length — 1330 m Height difference of the wall section — 750 m, length of the wall section — 830 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65°, length of sections of 5th category — 255 m, length of sections of 6th category — 320 m. 6. Pitons hammered: rock: 90/16 chocks: 80/4
Route Description: СЗ канту
Technical ascent description of 5B category complexity to the peak Iskander (5140 m) via the North-West ridge in Pamir.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class: Technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Iskander, 5140 m, via the Northwest ridge 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B category, rock 5. Route characteristics: height difference 4300–5140 m, 840 m; length of sections of 5–6 cat. sl. 420 m (V — 305 m, VI — 115 m); average steepness 62° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying: * Chocks — 68 * Rock — 171
Route Description: СЗ канту
Peak Iskander (5000 m) via the northwest edge, combined route, cat. 5B, second ascent.
Ascent Passport I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak S.Iskander (5000 m) via the northwest edge. 4. Second ascent, combined 5B category of difficulty. 5. Height difference — 1000 m, length — 1330 m. Height difference of the wall section — 750 m. Length of the wall section — 830 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 65°. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 255 m, 6th category of difficulty — 320 m. 6. Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice |
Route Description: левому канту В стены
Description of the route of 5B category of complexity to Peak Iskander North via the left part of the Eastern wall, climbed in 1986 by a group of climbers.
PASSPORT
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su gorge.
- Peak Iskander North, 5000 m, via the left edge of the Eastern wall.
- Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: wall section height difference — 900 m, total route height difference — 1120 m, total route length — 1560 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 450 m,
Route Description: правой части В стены
Route passport for a category 6A climb to the summit of Iskander S. (5000 m) via the right part of the East Face, followed by a traverse of Iskander Gl. and Petrogradets peaks.
Ascent Passport
38a
- Ascent class — traverse class
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge
- Iskander S. (5000 m) via the right part of the Eastern wall, first ascent — Iskander Gl. (5120 m) — Petrovgradets (5163 m)
- Complexity category — approximately 6A category, first ascent
- Height difference of Iskander S. Eastern wall — 950 m
- including the wall section — 460 m Length of Iskander S. Eastern wall:
- total — 4030 m
Route Description: правой части В стены
Description of the first ascent of a combined 5B category route up the eastern wall of Iskander peak in Pamir-Alay.
Climbing Passport
- Category: Technical
- Region: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Asu gorge.
- Summit: Iskander via the eastern wall
- Route: Combined, first ascent, approximately 5B category difficulty
- Elevation gain: 1049 m
- Average slope of the route: 66°
- Average slope of the wall section: 75°
- Route length: 1813 m
- Pitons used: rock — 66, chocks — 133, bolts — 1
Technical first ascent of the East summit of the Paarus (4800 m) via the north ridge in the Turkestan Range.
5.4 .2 .
4 АК
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical.
- Turkestan Range, Ashat gorge.
- East Parus (4800) via North ridge, combined route.
- Approximately 4800 m, diff. 6, first ascent.
- Height difference — 800 m, length of sections V cat. diff. — 65 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°
- Pitons hammered:
Route Description: бастиону СВ стены
Report on the first ascent of the route category 6A on the North-Eastern wall of *Paarus Vostochniy* peak (4800 m) in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay in August 1989.
43 I Championship of the All-Union Council of the All-Union Voluntary Sports Society (VDSSO) of Trade Unions on Alpinism 1989 Technical Class REPORT on the ascent (first ascent) to Peak 4800 m (Parus Eastern) via the bastion of the North-East wall, approximately 6A category of difficulty, by the team of the "Olimp" Alpine Club of the Sumy Regional Council of VDSSO Trade Unions from August 9 to 17, 1989. Team Leader: Mityukhin F.P. Team Coach: Mityukhin F.P. 1989. Addresses:
- "Olimp" Alpine Club of the Sumy Regional Council of VDSSO Trade Unions 244011, Sumy, Novomestenskaya St., 26