1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Peak 3900 (Domashnyaya).
4. Estimated difficulty — 5A rock climbing.
5. Height difference: total — 650 m; wall section — 440 m. Length of wall section — 500 m. Average steepness of wall section — 70°.

It is difficult, practically impossible, to capture the route profile. The ridge along which the route runs is zigzag-shaped and is blocked from the south by the towers of gendarmes. Photos taken from below, from the moraine, result in overlapping images. Photographing from Peak Domashny also results in overlapping ridge bends, plus details are not visible due to the large distance. A frontal photo captures only 1–2 nearest ascents; the rest of the ridge is blocked by gendarmes.

Approach Description

From the base camp, bypassing the southern spurs of the peak Dostoevsky to the right, ascend via scree under the southern slopes of peak Dostoevsky (5 hours from the camp). Approach the western ridge via moraine to the first long snow couloir on the left. R0–R1. Ascend the 35° 1000 m snow couloir to a saddle on the western ridge before the 1st gendarme (3 hours from the moraine). The couloir is avalanche-prone; it is recommended to pass it in the morning. Behind the saddle on the ridge is a good place to spend the night in a hollow. R1–R2. Bypass the 1st gendarme to the right. Descend 50 m to a snowy inclined ledge. Rocks with ice formations. Traverse right and upwards to a steep snow couloir. R2–R3. Ascend the couloir to a narrow saddle before the 2nd gendarme. In the narrow part of the couloir is a 15 m ice chute. R3–R4. Ascend the 2nd gendarme directly, snowy rocks. R4–R5. Descend via snowy rocks with top rope on a snowy cornice. R5–R6. Snowy cornice turning into a snowy wall, loose snow on a smooth rock slab.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category. 2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley. 3. Peak Dostoevskogo 4974 m via the western ridge. 4. The route is combined, first ascent, category 4B complexity approximately. 5. Height difference: 1080 m Average steepness — 33°. Route length — 2270 m 5. Rock pitons hammered — 27 pcs. ice screws — 4 pcs. Used chocks — 9 pcs.

I. Technical class 2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-su valley 3. Peak Dostoyevsky (4974 m) via the East ridge, combined 4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent 5. Height difference 570 m, length 1320 m. Length of sections category 4 — 280 m, category 5 — 40 m. Average slope of the route 27°, average slope of the couloir 30°, average slope of the ridge 20°, slope of the summit tower wall 60° 6. Pitons driven: rock 40, chockstones 30 7. Climbing hours — 19, days — 2 8. Overnight stay: 1st on a site prepared on a snowy ridge 9. Leader: Viktor Pruss, 1st sports category. Participants: Serafim Vasiliev, 1st sports category. Valentin Litskevich, 1st sports category. Izolda Shaginyan, Master of Sports of the USSR 10. Coach: Yuri Kozlov, Master of Sports of the USSR

Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation The quality of photographic materials does not correct No. 32. Classify the route. Classified 3 cat. sl. No. 533 from No. 529 November 22, 1983.

Report

on the first ascent of p. 4974 (peak F. Dostoevsky) via the right counterfort of the Southwest wall by the group of LOS DSO "Burevestnik" gathering. Group leader Evstigneev A.V. July 5–7, 1982. Leningrad

Tactical actions of the team

The group started the ascent in the following rope team configuration: Litskevich–Pruss, Vasiliev–Shaginyan. Departure from the bivouac under the route on July 14, 1983, at 8:30 after a communication session. The steep part of the couloir was traversed by 14:00. Exit to the ridge at 15:00. Stop for a bivouac on the ridge before descending to the saddle before the "Tower" gendarme — 17:30.

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region, range — Pamiro-Alay, Turkestan.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak 4974 (F. Dostoevsky), via the right counterfort of the SW wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A, combined.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 620 m length of 5–6 sections — 130 m, average steepness — 45°
6. Pitons used: for belaying — 60 (rock) for creating artificial holds — 8

Ascent Day Passport

I. Ascent classification — technical 2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan 3. Peak, its height, route — peak 4974 (F. Dostoevsky) via the right counterfort 10–3 of the wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m length of sections — 6th cat. diff. — 120 m, average steepness — wall sections — 60° 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 56 for creating belay anchors — 5

N­3 A­4­9­2­0

5120 m

4220 m

• B10: He­he­berg (2x)
• B11: He­he­berg (2x)
• B12: He­he­berg (2x)
• B13: He­he­berg (2x)
• B14: He­he­berg (2x)
• B15: He­he­berg (2x)
• B16: He­he­berg (2x)

Russian Mountaineering Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report on the Ascent of Peak Iskander via the South Face

Team from Moscow