Climbing Passport
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Category: Technical
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Region: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Asu gorge.
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Summit: Iskander via the eastern wall
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Route: Combined, first ascent, approximately 5B category difficulty
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Elevation gain: 1049 m
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Average slope of the route: 66°
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Average slope of the wall section: 75°
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Route length: 1813 m
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Pitons used: rock — 66, chocks — 133, bolts — 1
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Climbing time: ascent — 25.9 hours, descent — 6.5 hours
Leader: Marabura I.K. — Candidate Master of Sports Team members:
- Vasilenko Yu.V. — Candidate Master of Sports
- Denisenko P.N. — Candidate Master of Sports
- Volovik Yu.I. — 1st class Coach: Klokova A.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
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Departure to the route: July 4, 1984
Return to base camp: July 6, 1984
Ukrsoviet DSO "Spartak" gathering
www.alpfederation.ru↗
- Mt. Iskander. Eastern wall. Route profile on the right (from Mt. Maly Iskander). The eastern wall is horseshoe-shaped, so a pure profile is not visible.
DESCENT FROM THE SUMMIT, MT. ISKANDER
Footnotes
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R33–R34: 250 m, 30°, III (point 37); R32–R33: 120 m, 30°, III (point 36); R31–R32: 150 m, 25°, II (point 35); R30–R31: 40 m, 45°, III (point 34) R28–R29: 50 m, 80°, V (point 31); R27–R28: 10 m, 90°, VI A4 (point 30); R26–R27: 15 m, 70°, V (point 29); R25–R26: 25 m, 90°, VI A3 (point 18) R11–R12: 50 m, 85°, V (point 13); R12–R13: 10 m, 10°, II (point 16); R10–R11: 50 m, 85°, V (point 13); R8–R9: 7 m, 90°, VI (point 12); R9–R10: 8 m, 80°, V (point 11); R7–R8: 2 m, 95°, VI (point 10); R6–R7: 45 m, 75°, V (point 9); R5–R6: 40 m, 60°, V (point 8); R4–R5: 20 m, 45°, IV (point 7); R3–R4: 80 m, 45°, IV (point 5); R2–R3: 40 m, 50°, III (point 6); R1–R2: 90 m, 40°, III (point 3); R0–R1: 40 m, 50°, III (point 3); R29–R30: 120 m, 30°, 55°, IV (point 33); R19–R20: 50 m, 80°, V (point 23); R18–R19: 35 m, 65°, V (point 23); R17–R18: 25 m, 95%, V (point 22); R16–R17: 15 m, 70°, V (point 21); R15–R16: 30 m, 85°, V (point 20); R14–R15: 5 m, 60° (point 19); R13–R14: 50 m, 60°, V (point 17); R13–R14: 15 m, 30°, III (point 14); R6–R7: 12 m, 95°, VI; R5–R6: 10 m, 75°, V; R3–R4: 90 m, 45°, IV; R2–R3: 40 m, 60°, V; R1–R2: 7 m, 90°, VI; R0–R1: 2 m, 95°, VI; R4–R5: 45 m, 75°, V; R3–R4: 40 m, 60°, V; R2–R3: 20 m, 45°, IV; R1–R2: 80 m, 45°, IV; R3–R4: 40 m, 65°, IV (point 4); R2–R3: 90 m, 40°, III (point 3); 14 m, 65°, III (point 4); 16 m, 35°, III (point 12); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 15 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 15 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 16 m, 17 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 15 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 16 m, 17 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 16 m, 17 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, III (point 11); 14 m, 16 m, 35°, ↩