Russian Championship in Alpinism. Altitude Class

Report on the Ascent of Peak Iskander via the South Face

Team from Moscow 2011

FEDERATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING OF UKRAINE

World Championship in Alpinism Technical Class

Report

On the ascent of the team Ukraine — 2 (FACS Kharkov region) to peak Iskander 5120 m

Via the South wall. Route Zhiltsov's VI-A cat. sl. rock. Third ascent. Poltavets E. I. — team leader Timko E. N.

Kharkov 2013

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader — Poltavets Evgeny Ivanovich. MS. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V. Address: 61144, Kharkov, Akademika Pavlova str., 162A,

Route Description by Sections

R0–R1. Start moving left and below the summit scree along the wall, then along the corner. Reach the flattening. 45 m IV R1–R2. Move along the gentle rocks under the overhang. It provides protection from falling rocks. 40 m III R2–R3. Move right towards the stream (rocks are falling along the stream). Left of the stream, climb the wall to reach the gentle rocks. 45 m IV R3–R4. Approach the wall. Climb through the crack using artificial aids (IT) with underclimbs. 20 m II, 20 m VIA1 R4–R5. Climb right through the crack, followed by a difficult traverse (10 m). Reach the gentle, smooth rocks left of the stream and climb up. Set up a station at the exit to simple rocks. 15 m VIA2–A3, 35 m IV R5–R6. Climb up, then through the corner, to reach the gentle rocks. Continue climbing up. 15 m IV, 30 m II R6–R7. Climb right and up to the scree, then along the scree right and up to the rocky ridge. 100 m I R7–R8. Climb along the ridge left and up to the base of the gentle, smooth slab. 80 m I–III R8–R9. Climb the slab left and up, then straight up. Reach the internal corner. 40 m V+ A1

Ascent Report on Peak Iskander via the South Face

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge, 5.4.2. 36a
2. Peak Iskander, 5120 m, via the South Face (Zhiltsov's route, 1998)
3. 6A category of difficulty (4th ascent)
4. Route character: rock
5. Route height difference: 1030 m, wall height 625 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1320 m. Section lengths:

• V category of difficulty — 345 m.
• VI category of difficulty — 245 m. Average steepness:

FEDERATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING OF UKRAINE

World Championship in Alpinism Technical Class

Report

On the ascent of the Ukraine-2 team (FAR Kharkiv region) to Peak Iskander 5120 m

Via the South Face. Zhiltsov's route VI–A cat. sl. rock. Third ascent. Poltavets E. I. — team leader Timko E. N. Kharkiv 2013

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader — Poltavets Evgeniy Ivanovich. MS. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V. Address: 61144, Kharkiv, Akademika Pavlova st., 162A,

Ascent Report

Teams of the Irkutsk Region Federation of Alpinism and Climbing to the peak Iskander (5120 m), first ascent via the right part of the South face, approximately 6B category of difficulty. Russian Alpinism Championship, high-altitude technical class. Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Lailak valley region, August 2015.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Lailak valley region. According to KMGV 2013 – 5.4.2
2. Iskander. Height 5120 m. Right part of the South face. Route name "Water Truce".

FEDERATION OF ALPINISM OF BSSR № 4.2.33, 579, 3, 112.87

2012.37

Report

on the ascent to Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-West ridge. Cat. diff. - 4B. Leader - Alexander Mashkanov. Home address: 220134, Minsk, Yakubovsky st., 22, building 3, apt. 17. Team coach - Stanislav Shabunya. Home address: 220037, Minsk, 2nd Bagration lane, 19, apt. 48.

• base camp - five approaches - five returns

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.
3. Peak, its height, route — Pik Maly Iskander, 4520 m, via the edge of the southeast wall.
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 900 m.
   • length — 1005 m.
   • sections of 3rd difficulty category — 220 m.
   • sections of 4th difficulty category — 160 m.

Protocol No.559 p.4, 28.01.1986. 5B cat., 3rd ascent. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION (third ascent of the route) I. Ascent category: technical 2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su gorge 3. Maly Iskander peak (4640) via North-eastern wall 4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, rock 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 435 m

ASCENT REPORT

(second passage of the route)

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley.
3. Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-East face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, rock
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 435 m length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 30 m