ASCENT REPORT

1. Technical category
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Bodhona, 5138 m, via the left part of the western wall (A. Moshnikov's route, 2nd ascent)
4. Category: 6A
5. Height difference: 1100 m (wall section — 700 m) Distance: 1900 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 70°
6. Pitons used: | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws | | :--: | :----: | :--------: | :-------: |

1. Climbing class - technically challenging.
2. Climbing area - Fan Mountains.
3. Route - peak S. Bodkhona (5300) via N. wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kudinov I.B.'s route, 1968, 2nd ascent).
4. Climbing characteristics: route length - 3270 m, height difference - 2100 m, average steepness - 75°, length of difficult sections - 520 m, 6th category of difficulty.
5. Pitons hammered:

• rock (including stoppers) - 292
• ice - 4

6. Number of climbing hours - 40
7. Number of nights - 4 (all comfortable)

Ascent Certificate

I. Ascent category — technically challenging. 2. Ascent region — Fann Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodkhona (5300 m) via N. wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kudinov I.B.'s route, 1968, 3rd ascent) 4. Ascent characteristics: route length — 3270 m, height difference — 2100 m, average steepness — 75°, length of challenging sections — 520 m, 6th category of complexity. 5. Pitons hammered in: rock (including stoppers) — 220, ice — 4 6. Total climbing hours — 40 h 7. Number of bivouacs — 4 (all convenient)

I. Climbing category — technically challenging. 2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodhona (5300) via N. wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kudinov I.B. route, 1968) — 2nd ascent. 4. Climbing characteristics: route length — 3270 m, height difference — 2100 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex sections — 520 m — VI category of difficulty. 5. Pitons used: rock (including chocks) — 292, ice — 4 6. Total climbing hours — 40 h 7. Number of nights — 4 (all comfortable) 8. Number of climbing days — 5

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — technically challenging. 2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodhona (5300 m) via N. wall, 5B category of complexity («Kudinov I.B. route, 1968, 3rd ascent») 4. Ascent characteristics: route length — 3270 m height difference — 2100 m average steepness — 75° length of difficult sections — 520 m, VI category of complexity 5. Pitons driven:

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM AND TOURIST CENTER "VERTIKAL-ALAUDIN" www.fany.ru

Peak Bodhona East, via the North Face (B. Bogdanov's route, 1991)

Ascent Passport

Technical Grade. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains. Peak Bodhona East, via the North Face (B. Bogdanov's route, 1991) Difficulty category — 6B, first ascent. Ascent characteristics:

• Elevation gain — 1770 m, wall section — 1650 m
• Length — 2866 m, wall section — 1976 m
• Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty grade — 701 m (6th grade — 375 m)
• Average steepness of the main route — 60°, section R0–R28 — 65°, section R34–R53 — 70°

P. Bortsov za Mir, 2A, via East Ridge (V. Egorov's itinerary, 67)

1 — via East Ridge, cat. 2A; 2 — via North Face, cat. 2B. Route sections description (for cat. 2A via East Ridge): R1: 150 m, 40°. R2: 90 m, 65°. R3: 40 m, 60°, cat. 2. R4: 80 m, 60°, cat. 3. R5: 80 m, 10°, cat. 1. Approach to the route via North Face. From Alaudin pass go down to the right in the direction of the East Ridge of Bortsov za Mir peak; further screes and grassy slopes lead under the North Face of the East Ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is a gendarme with a white spot. Bol. Alaudinskoe Lake

56. Yakum from the southwest, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir in the direction of the summit. Then turn right onto the slope towards the saddle between the gendarmes to the left of the Yakum pass. There may be snow on the slope. From the saddle, move up the grassy slope, bypassing individual rock outcrops, in the direction of the uppermost saddle in the second ridge. From the saddle, exit left under the wall, before reaching the couloir that descends steeply from the ridge. Ascend 40 m of steep rocks with piton belay to reach the couloir. Then continue up the couloir to the black rocks, from where follow the ledges to the ridge. Cairn. Fig. 29. Continue to the summit along the broken ridge with three gendarmes. Descend from the first gendarme 5–6 m down a sheer wall. The remaining gendarmes are traversed with alternating belay. Reach the summit via a broad and gentle ridge. Descend from the summit to the west — 1B cat. diff. (route 55). The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

3. The summit, its height and the route: Adamtash 4700 m from Big Cirque.
4. Assumed category of difficulty: 2A
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference 400 m, average steepness 40–45° length of sections R1–R200 m, R2–R450 m, R3–R50 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay — 2 rock pitons
7. Number of walking hours: 6 hours — ascent, 3 hours — descent
8. Number of overnight stays and their quality: a site on the base in the cirque (4300 m)
9. Full name of the leader and participants, sports qualification: Daruga V. K. — 1st sports category, senior instructor, Miglinayte G. A. — participant
10. Team coach: Daruga V. K.

V. ADAMTASH, 4A, via the Eastern Ridge (V. Korotkov's route, 68)

From the Big Alaudin Lakes, follow the trail towards the Mutny Lakes until the turn to the Adamtash Pass. Go around the spur (on the right or left) and approach a characteristic white wall in the lower part of the spur above a large green shoulder. The landmark is a waterfall to the right. Here is the 1st control point. Put on climbing shoes and tie in here. R0–R1: 40 m at 70°, moderately difficult rock with good holds. Then enter a chimney (7–8 m) and continue to a black wall; bypass it and reach a ledge. Alternate belay. R1–R2: 100 m at 45°, moderately difficult rock. Alternate belay. R2–R3: 120 m at 30–40° scree, exit below a wall. Simultaneous movement. R3–R4: An internal corner (40 m at 70°) with loose rocks. Then move 10 m straight up and then 5 m right along a ledge, followed by 10 m left and up a slab. The landmark to the left is a grey wall. Continue 40 m right and up at 80°, then 80 m up ledges at 60°, and 40 m of difficult climbing at 85–90° with piton protection. R4–R5: Traverse left (30 m) and 50 m along the left side of the spur. The rocks are sharp with few cracks. Exit onto a saddle via a path of II cat. diff. R5–R6: Traverse left towards the visible col before the wall of the South-Eastern Ridge. Alternate belay. Then 40 m along a smoothed slab. Exit onto the ridge via scree (snow in June). 40 m. Cross over to the South-West slope. R6–R7: 200 m at 30–40° along scree ledges towards the rusty-red rocks on the left side of the wall. Simultaneous movement. R7–R8: Easy climbing on moderately difficult rocks (250 m at 40°). Alternate belay.