Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class - technical
2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - South Siam /4337 m/ via the eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 3A route
5. Route characteristics - the route is combined, height difference - 400 m. Average steepness of the wall section - 70°
6. Pitons driven: rock - 14 pcs., chocks - 8 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours - 10
8. Number of nights - no nights
9. Team of a/l "Varzob"
10. Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification:
1. Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich - CMS - captain
2. Afanasiev Alexey Georgievich - 2nd sports category - participant
3. Badykshina Alisa Miyas sarovna - 2nd sports category - participant
4. Bikineev Shamil Ilyich - 2nd sports category - participant
II. Team coach - Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich
12. Date of departure on the route and return - July 19, 1981
South Siam peak (4337 m). General view.
Ascent route via the Eastern wall - 3A category of difficulty.
Map-scheme of the ascent area.
Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to South Siam peak via the eastern wall 3A category of difficulty.
| Date | Section designation | Average steepness (degrees) | Length (m) | Relief characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Chocks |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 19, 1981 | R0–R1 | 40° | 80 | Snow slope with a bergschrund | 2–3 | dense firn | - | - | |
| R1–R2 | 75° | 60 | Rock slabs | 4 | monolith | 6 | 4 | ||
| R2–R3 | 70° | 20 | Rock slabs | 3–4 | broken rocks | 2 | - | ||
| R3–R4 | 30° | 2 | Ledge | - | -"- | - | - | ||
| R4–R5 | 70° | 30 | Inner corner | 3 | -"- | 1 | 2 | ||
| R5–R6 | 75° | 30 | Wall with an exit | 4 | -"- | 3 | 2 | ||
| R6–R7 | 80° | 10 | Slab under a yellow cornice | 4–5 | monolith | 2 | - | ||
| R7–R8 | 60° | 80 | Series of short walls and inner corners | 3 | monolith, many ledges for belay | - | - | ||
| R8–R9 | 30° | 150 | Rocky ridge | 2 | broken, snow-covered | - | - | ||
| R9–R10 | 40° | 250 | Snow ridge | 3 | dense firn | - | - | ||
| Total: | 712 | 14 | 8 |
Team captain Glushko V.I.
Photo - 7. Summit.
