19. Vostochnaia Siam from the east, route 2A cat. dif., fig. 6

From the base camp, cross Siam and start ascending to the glacier cirque below the peaks of Vostochnaia Siam and Yuzhnaia Siam. The ascent follows a stream that flows into Siam. After 1.5–2 hours, reach the glacier moraine. Then, proceed onto the glacier and ascend to the col between the peaks of Sugur and Vostochnaia Siam. The col is covered with compacted talus.

From the col, ascend via snow, which becomes steeper (up to 50°) in the upper section. Stay on the left side of the snowfield and reach the base of a gendarme on the ridge. Traverse the gendarme via a ledge, using difficult rock climbing on the right, until reaching a couloir. Ascend the couloir almost to the top of the gendarme. Then, use moderately difficult rock climbing to reach the ridge.

Two long, loose couloirs lead to the pre-summit ridge. Take the right one. From the ridge, use a good ledge on the right to approach the base of the right couloir.

The couloir is rockfall-prone! Traverse the couloir on the left, near the rocks, occasionally stepping onto moderately difficult rock formations. The couloir makes a sharp turn to the right, then to the left, and leads to the pre-summit ridge.

Ascend the ridge using rock climbing to reach the first summit. The summit is a massive boulder leaning towards Siam. Then, continue along the ridge, crossing a col, to reach the next peak — the Main summit, which is almost the same height.

Descend via the ascent route. The climb takes 9 hours.