95. Ascent Report
I. Ascent Class — Rock 2. Ascent Area — Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky Ridge, Tajik Igizakov area 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route, route characteristics — Sioykh, 4100 m, via the western ridge, rock. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 1B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain average steepness — 42° section lengths: R1 — 550 m, R2 — 150 m, R3 — m, R4 — m, R5 — m, R6 — m. 6. Pitons driven: rock 3/0 ice 0/0 bolt 0/0 chocks 5/0 7. Total climbing hours — 10 h 30 min 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
- Tyulenev I.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor
- Tibatyn V.V. — rank beginner
- Tukaev E. — rank beginner
- Talvik M. — rank beginner
- Shmeleva L.N. — rank beginner
- Team coach — Leonov Konstantin Nikolaevich.
II. Date of departure, ascent, and return — November 7, 1986
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Ascent Description
The ascent to Sioykh peak is made from the "Tajik Igizakov" bivouac. From the overnight stay, head up along the trail along the river, then through the valley into the cirque of the Four — Sioykh — Panoramnogo spur peaks, 2 h 30 min.
Then, head right — up the lateral gorge towards the saddle (the lowest point) between the Four and Sioykh (Black) peaks to a gentle ascent — 40–45° with rock outcrops. Although there is a grassy slope and snow nearby, it is logical to follow the rocks. Total time to the saddle is 3 h 30 min. Tie in here. From the saddle, head right — up through alternating snow and rocks to a large inclined wall (R2), piton protection (chock), alternating protection. After the wall, the "beak" gendarme is passed by bypassing on the right — up, alternating protection. Further, the R4 section requires responsibility; even on the initial ridge section, alternating protection is necessary — there are gaps in the ridge towards the northern cirque. The summit rock gendarme is also overcome by bypassing on the right (it is necessary to descend 3–4 m to the right — down). Total time is 1 h 30 min.
The descent from the summit is either via the ascent route or straight down into the original cirque via snow, through narrow couloirs (be more attentive, it is necessary to cross from the first couloir to the second couloir on the right in 100–150 m!).
The ascent takes 9–10.5 h.
