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P. Borcov za mir, ZA, South buttress of the West ridge (V. Ivchik route, 77)

Approach to the route via the South buttress of the West ridge. From the Alaudin pass, go right-down in the direction of the West ridge of Borcov za mir peak. Then scree and grassy slopes lead to the base of the South buttress of the West ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is from the gendarme. oz. B. Apaudinskoe P. Borcov za mir via South buttress of the West ridge, cat. diff. R6 80 m, 30–40°, 3–2+ R5 20 m, 50°, + Gendarme R4 40 m, 60°, 4- R3 80 m, 45–55°, 3–3+

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical ascent category
2. Ascent region — Fann Mountains, spur of the Zeravshan Range
3. Peak
   • Borzov za Mir
   • a) elevation — 4100 m
   • b) ascent route — via the South face
4. Expected category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • a) elevation gain — 300 m

To the head coach of mountaineering of the USSR Sports Committee, Comrade SHAATAEV V.N. To the chairman of the classification commission of the FAM USSR, Comrade PETRASHKO G.A. We are submitting a report on the ascent of v. Borzov za mir via the center of the southern wall, made on July 13, 1980, by a group of climbers from al "Artuch" led by Bezverkhy A.I. Conclusion on the route: The ascent of v. Borzov za mir, 4100 m, via the center of the S wall is a first ascent. The route is of a rocky nature and corresponds to the 4A category of complexity by its technical difficulty. We request that this report be reviewed and the route of ascent to v. Borzov za mir via the center of the southern wall be classified. Head of KSP in the Fann Mountains T. MUMDJI November 13, 1980. Leader A. Bezverkhy + 4 people.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. VEI, 4400 m, South-West ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — none average steepness 45°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 15

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Gardish, 4590 m, via the northern wall, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1000 m, height difference — 1230 m, average steepness — 63°.
6. Pitons driven:

2. The climbing area is the Fan Mountains.
3. The ascent route is to peak Diamar (3900) via the center of the northeast face. C. 3 cat.-4 π 1/111–29: — 45.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: Height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 60°, length of difficult sections — 245 m.
5. Number of pitons driven: rock — 54, ice — , screw (bolts) —
6. Total travel time — 18.5 hours.
7. Number of overnight stays — 1 (lying down).

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay 5.3.
3. Peak: Diamar, height 3300 m, route via the left part of the NE wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Route characteristics: a. height difference 800 m. b. average steepness 70°. c. section lengths:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. DIAMAR GLAVNY (4000 m) via the center of the NE wall, 3rd ascent of the route.
4. Proposed difficulty category: — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 750 m. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 560 m. average steepness of the entire route — 65 degrees. average steepness of the wall section — 75 degrees.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing capsule: Skalny
2. Climbing area, ridge: 5.3. Zaravshan ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Diemar (4000 m) via the north face, category 5B difficulty
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty 379 m
   • Average steepness 66°
6. Other removable protection points hammered:
   • rock T22 — 38
   • for creating intermediate anchor points (rock) — 7

Description

The ascent was made in August 1972 by the group from the "Artuch" alpine camp (Spartak recreation center, Leningrad Mountain Society) consisting of:

1. Rezentuller A., 2nd category, leader,
2. Guryan D., 1st category,
3. Vestrova I., 2nd category,
4. Dyktaykov V., 2nd category,
5. Efimov V., 2nd category The Maly Diamar peak (3600m) is located in the eastern part of the Diamar massif and is separated from the Diamar peak by a wide, lowered section of the ridge with isolated rock outcrops. A steep, wide, rocky descent branches off the slope from the summit.