47² μ⁸ μ/2

Djoung Manas (4512 m) via the Eastern ridge (from the col) via the route 4A cat. diff. Exit from the "May nights" camp at 3300 m, movement along the glacier, crossing it diagonally, towards the col — 1 hour. Before ascending to the col, it is necessary to rope up:

• Sharp altitude gain
• Hard firn
• Slope steepness up to 45–50° Reaching the ridge at 3850 m. Beginning of the route. Exit through a crevasse onto a gendarme — 20 m, intermittent belay. Descent via rocky outcrops — 30 m. Left along the ridge, climbing 3^a technical difficulty. Further ascent along the ridge — 30 m. The second gendarme is bypassed on the left via loose rocky slabs — 30 m, then along a snowy ridge — 50 m. A short descent, followed by an ascent along a snowy slope 35–40° — 150 meters. Movement along a snowy ridge with a steepness of 25–30° — 200 meters. To the right remains a reddish granite tooth — 10 m. Further:

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — NW Tian Shan range, Talas Alatau range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — South Manas 4512 m via the right buttress of the north face of the eastern ridge
4. Expected category of difficulty — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 650 m Length of sections 5–6 km/tr. — none, average slope 45°–50°
6. Pitons hammered in: for rock protection 19, ice screws 6, for creating anchor belay rock 1

I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: North-West Tian Shan, Talas Alatau range.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — South Manas 4512 m, via the north face of the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1000 m. Length of sections 5–6 km/tr. 365 m, average steepness 60°.
6. Pitons used: for rock protection — 65; for creating rock ITO — 4.
7. Total climbing hours: 30 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one night on the wall, semi-reclined for four people.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

I. ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, range — North Tian Shan, Talas Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Yuzhny Manas, 4512 m, via the center of the north face of the eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1000 m, length of sections with 5-6 technical difficulty, 537 m, average steepness — ~75°
6. Pitons used: for belaying — rock 116, ice and bolt —; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 25, ice and bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours — 30
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two bivouacs: on the wall — semi-reclining for two; on the eastern ridge — good reclining
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification: pair — KRAPIVIN V.N., CMS; PARSHIN V.S., CMS

7.14.15

Mt. Teke (3870 m) via North Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty (from "Nefertiti" campsite) Depart from "Nefertiti" bivouac — 2866 m. Cross to the opposite side of the Terek river, follow its left (orographic) bank downstream to the beginning of the rightmost, straightforward rib, and start ascending to the watershed ridge. Climbing in a rope team is required in the upper third of the rib; simultaneous insurance is used. There are sections a few meters long where alternate insurance is necessary. Reaching the ridge: beware of snow cornices! The ridge consists of severely degraded rocks. Move simultaneously, securing the rope to rock outcrops as needed; there are rock gendarmes on the ridge. All are bypassed on simple to moderate rocks to the right. Ahead lies the summit cairn near a geodetic trig point. From the summit, a panoramic view to the southwest is available. Western slopes are talus. Eastern slopes drop steeply with rugged ribs and couloirs. Descent: — Retrace the ascent route across the massif; — Then descend into a broad snow couloir between Mt. Teke and "4011" (35 let Pobedy);

3. The summit, its height, the ascent route — Tene, 3870 m, via the northern ridge.
4. The supposed category of difficulty — 1B category.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of the section R1–R5 category, average steepness in degrees — 1000 m, 1500 m — 1 category; 40°–45°.
6. Pitons hammered in for belaying to create artificial support points — Rock pitons — 3 pcs. Ice screws — 1 pc. Bolt pitons —
7. Number of climbing hours — 8–9 hours
8. Number of nights and their characteristics —
9. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification:
10. Paraev B. N. — Master of Sports

V. Teke (3870 m)

via the right buttress of the North Ridge, Cat. 2A The ascent starts from the Nefertiti campsite. Cross to the other side of the "Terek" river, then:

• Reach the last (rightmost) ridge that leads to the crest and begin ascending along the fir-covered talus slope.
• To the left, there is a snow (scree in summer) couloir-ridge with powerful gendarmes in the upper part. The approach to the start of the ridge from the campsite takes 30 minutes. Then, ascend along the talus, heavily eroded crest to the first rock walls. Movement up to this point is simultaneous. Tie in before the rock walls. Continue ascending along the rocky sections with intermittent insurance. The sections are Cat. 1-2. The length is 180-200 m.
• An 8-9 m rock is bypassed on the left via ledges that are 30-35 m long, Cat. 2.
• Insurance is provided through protrusions. The route continues along the ridge. Insurance is provided by a rope placed around protrusions. The path leads to a snowy slope with a 30-35° incline, insured via an ice axe, 25-30 m long; there may be cornices. Before reaching the summit ridge, there is a long 130-140 m snow ascent with a slope incline of up to 40°. Insurance is provided through ice axes. The path leads to the crest. The summit point is 250-300 m to the left. Along the way, there are simple rocks, Cat. 1B-2A. Insurance is provided along the crest. A summit cairn.

Tapas­sky Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 2870 m, via the right counterfort of the northern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section R1–R5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees, length of section R1–R5 cat. diff. by steepness in degrees: 30–35; 1000 m; R1 — 300 m, R2 — 300 m.
6. Pitons driven for protection to create artificial anchor points: Rock — 2 pcs. Ice — Bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours — 7–8 h

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, range — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Teke, 3870 m via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 2B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1–5, average steepness in degrees. 900 m, I–700 m, II–200 m, 35°.
6. Number of pitons used for belaying to create artificial holds: Rock — 6 Ice — 2 Bolt —

V. Teke (3870 m) via the East Ridge, Cat. 2B

(from "Nefertiti" campsite – 2866 m) From the "Nefertiti" campsite, cross to the other side of the stream and begin ascending via a wide couloir between the massive rocky ridges of the massif. The landmark should be a prominent gendarme at the top of the ridge, strongly resembling the walls of the "Bastille" fortress. This is the ridge along which the route goes. The ascent up the snowy couloir (becoming scree-covered by the end of the season) takes about 2 hours; then, after a large rocky outcrop in the middle of the couloir, it is necessary to move rightwards onto the ridge – this takes 30–40 minutes.

Route Start

• The first gendarme is bypassed on the left.
• 35–40 m of free climbing, followed by a cairn.
• Then proceed along the ridge for 130–150 m with simultaneous belay. Rocky sections are bypassed on the left.
• 30–40 m of straightforward climbing leading to the ridge.
• Directly along the ridge – a gendarme, difficult climbing, 12 m long.
• Followed by a sharp snowy crest with a 35° slope, 15 m long, belay via ice axe.