Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge. 7.11
2. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the 2nd buttress of the North face.
3. Difficulty category: assumed 5B, 2nd ascent.
4. Route characteristic: rock.
5. Route height difference: 813 m, route length: 1127 m, section lengths: V difficulty category — 504 m, VI difficulty category — 73 m, average steepness: main part of the route — 77°, entire route — 72°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 4. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Rafikov I.Sh. (team leader), Vchinnikov S.I., Li N.B., Mendorf V.R. Route: Sairam – Ayutor, NE ridge, to the right. Length 45 km. Height 4724.6 m, 20 hours. 24-25.09.1984.

Ascent to Sairam Peak

• Group's route
• Sedelnikov's route, 5B cat. diff. www.alpfederation.ru

Crux of the route

North edge of Ayu-Tor peak (left profile)

2. Climbing area, ridge ­— C ­— 8 Tian-Shan Talas Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route ­— Dvoeglazy, 4355 m NW ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty ­— 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1­–5 km, average slope in degrees ­— height difference 1300 m, avg. slope 40°, length of sections: Cat. I complexity ­— 800 m
   Cat. II complexity ­— 300 m
6. Placement of pitons for insurance to create artificial anchor points:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Tanassky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzholoy, 4355 m, via the North counterfort of the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I–5, average steepness in degrees. 800 m, 950 m, II–III — 150 m, III — 800 m.
6. Pitons driven for protection to create artificial holds: Rock — 5 Ice — Bolt —

4135

Joloe Peak (East), 4355 m

via the north central ridge, cat. 4A (from camp on Joloe Glacier 3560 m) From the 3560 m bivouac located on the left side of Joloe Glacier, ascend via moraine (snow-covered depending on the season) to the north-central ridge lying to the right of the northern buttress. The ascent to the start of the route is via a snow-ice slope with a slope angle of 35–40° and a length of 120 m, to the left of the lower third of a monolithic rocky triangle. The route follows the left (as seen from below) edge of the triangle; climbing grade 3–4. Belays are alternating, via projections; use protection gear and pitons. The section is 130–140 m long. This is followed by a small snow-covered rocky ledge 3–4 m wide, after which there is

• a 35-meter rocky wall with a slope angle of 75–80°, leading to a rocky "window" and the ridge. Belays are via pitons and protection gear. Climbing is difficult. This is the first crux. The ascent continues along the ridge:
• Belays are alternating until a snow-covered ledge; the ridge is degraded, rocks are grade 2–3.
• Ahead lies a large gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a cleft and then a chimney; the height is 10 m, climbing is difficult, challenging.

2. Nearby ascents, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — p. Dvopoy 4355 m, via the north central edge. 35 km
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4° cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, section length 1–6 km, average steepness in degrees — 600 m, 11–400 m, 11–17 — 190 m, 17 — 130 m, 17–7 — 65 m, 45°–50°.
6. Number of loops hammered in for insurance to create artificial support points.
   • Rock — 12
   • Ice — 5
   • Hook anchors —

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Ascent area, ridge: S-3 Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJOLOY ZAPADNY (WESTERN) via the northern glacier slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 630 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty category average steepness 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for insurance rock — ice — 42 bolted — for creating and organizing emergency stops rock — ice — bolted —
7. Number of travel hours: 6

3. The summit, its height, route ascent — Manas, 4482 m, southern ridge from a. Asmas
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 1B
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of section I–5 cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 1182 m, avg. steepness 30°, length of sections: 1 cat. diff. — 300 m, 2 cat. diff. — 50 m
6. Number of hooks for belay to create artificial support points: rock — 2 pcs., ice — none, bolted — none
7. Number of walking hours — 10
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — none

From bivouac 3300 "Майские ночёвки", located on the Manas glacier moraine, entrance on the right side (in the direction of travel) of the glacier - 2 hours walk under the saddle. Ascent to the saddle on a snowy slope 30-35°, between Bokovoy Manas and Manas Glavny. Here you should rope up. Further movement along the Bokovoe ridge, on large-block talus, steepness 30-35°; movement - 1 hour. From the ridge, descend into a 10 m gap, handrails are necessary, protection via ledges, pitons. Further ascent to the summit on talus, here too handrails are recommended.

Ascent Passport.

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Region of ascent, ridge — 1–3 Tian-Shan Talassky ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m D — 3 ridge 4. Expected category of difficulty — 1B 5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I-5 category of difficulty, average steepness in degrees — height difference 1850 m, length of sections: I category of difficulty — 1800 m II category of difficulty — 50 m