47² μ⁸ μ/2
Djoung Manas (4512 m) via the Eastern ridge (from the col) via the route 4A cat. diff.
Exit from the "May nights" camp at 3300 m, movement along the glacier, crossing it diagonally, towards the col — 1 hour.
Before ascending to the col, it is necessary to rope up:
- Sharp altitude gain
- Hard firn
- Slope steepness up to 45–50°
Reaching the ridge at 3850 m. Beginning of the route. Exit through a crevasse onto a gendarme — 20 m, intermittent belay. Descent via rocky outcrops — 30 m. Left along the ridge, climbing 3^a technical difficulty. Further ascent along the ridge — 30 m.
The second gendarme is bypassed on the left via loose rocky slabs — 30 m, then along a snowy ridge — 50 m. A short descent, followed by an ascent along a snowy slope 35–40° — 150 meters. Movement along a snowy ridge with a steepness of 25–30° — 200 meters. To the right remains a reddish granite tooth — 10 m.
Further:
- Steep snowy ascent 50°
- Along a rocky ridge — 30 m.
- Bypass a gendarme on the right
- Piton belay, possible ice
Exit from the couloir is difficult — 4 cat. diff., length 1 m, steepness 60°.
Then along the ridge, moderate difficulty involves rocky slabs, crevasses, chimneys. Minimal altitude gain. Altitude 4180 m. Ascent along the left side of the ridge with a steepness of 45° — about 200 m. Rocks 3–4 cat. diff. Drops of up to 20 m depth, ascent via rocky slabs up the wall. Climbing is difficult, piton belay. About 120 m — traverse. Approximately 11–12 pitons hammered in.
Further:
- Exit onto the summit ridge via moderately difficult rocks
- About 200 m of easy rocks, simultaneous movement
- Descent 20 m — athletic, followed by rope retrieval
- Bypass a gendarme on the right
- Exit along a ridge with a steepness of 30–40° — 80 m
- Ascent to the summit via moderately difficult rocks
The summit. Descent via 2A cat. diff. towards the col between the South Manas peak and the Main Manas, further descent from the col via snow and glacier to the "May nights" bivouac — 3300 m. The route takes 11–12 hours from the "May nights" camp to the camp.