ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Class of ascent. Technical
2. Area of ascent, ridge. Western Tien Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route. P. Teke, 3870 m, via the left South edge.
4. Proposed difficulty category. 2B
5. Route characteristics:

7.14.17

Mt. Teke (3870 m)

(via the left, eastern edge — cat. 3A) (from the "Nefertiti" campsite — 2866 m) From the "Nefertiti" campsite, cross the stream to the other side and begin ascending via a wide couloir between the massive rocky edges of the massif. A prominent gendarme in the upper part of the edge, resembling the walls of the "Bastille" fortress, serves as a landmark. This edge remains to the right of our couloir. The ascent up the snowy (and later, debris-covered) couloir takes about 2.5 hours. Past a rocky outcrop in the middle of the couloir, with 15-meter walls and forming a shoulder at the top, ascend 200–250 m up the slope to reach the ridge at the level of the gendarme — a tower of very regular shape. This marks the beginning of the route. All gendarmes and rocky walls encountered along the ridge can generally be bypassed on the left.

• Movement along the left part of the ridge is via rocky ledges, with intermittent belaying; the difficulty of the sections is cat. II–III, up to 200–220 m.
• In the final third of the route, there is a 40-m ascent onto a gendarme via cat. III rocks.
• This is followed by a descent onto a 2–3 m wide, 30-m long saddle with a depth of up to 10–12 m. Snow cornices overhang. Belaying is thorough.
• From this point begins a fairly steep snowy ascent with individual rocky outcrops, stretching up to 100 m, with an initial slope of 45° increasing to 75°. Belaying is via ice axe, and later via pitons. The entire rocky cliff of the pre-summit triangle remains to the left.

Tanasyoky Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Tene, 3870 m, via the first eastern ridge (from the Nefertiti campsite).
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I–5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees. 1000 m, II–600–650 m, II–11 — 200 m, 11 — 200 m, 402459
6. Pitons driven for insurance to create artificial support points:

• Rock — 6
• Ice — 2