Ugam Range

The ascent from the "Mazar" base camp to the assault camp, located under the shoulder of the West ridge on a large clearing, takes 3 hours. Departure from the camp at 7:00 in the morning. Move up the talus along the gorge to the ridge shoulder. It takes 2 hours to reach the shoulder from the camp. From the shoulder, ascend along the ridge, keeping to the left side of the large talus up to the pre-summit mandara "Zub". Then:

• ascend along the talus — landmark: ruined rocks;
• descend along vertical perils to a snowy isthmus;
• from the isthmus — to the summit along a snowy slope (15–20°).

2. Area of ascent, ridge — Talasskiy ridge — Panj Talasskiy ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m N - E ridge
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections R1–R5 category of difficulty, average steepness deg. — height difference 1060 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: R1 category of difficulty — 900 m, R3 category of difficulty — 400 m, R2 category of difficulty — 50 m
6. Pitons for belaying to create artificial anchor points: window-type — 4 pcs, dube-type — 2 pcs, ice screws — none

The group's entry under the north buttress of Manas peak at 7:30 am from the 3300 m campsite on the moraine, uphill along the slope with a steepness of 30–35°; to the col (100–120 m). Rope up. From the col, move left — directly along the broken rocks. Simultaneous movement (2 hours). Approach the gendarme, which is bypassed on the left as you go. Then again along easy broken rocks to the second gendarme, which is also bypassed on the left. (Snow throughout the entire route.) Continuing along the ridge, bypass the third gendarme on the right and enter a wide icy couloir with a steepness of 35–40° (move in crampons, ice is 10–15 cm thick). Piton belay. Upward along the ice (in the spring period — covered with snow). 80 m to a rocky outcrop (belay spot); and then traverse right to the north ridge — 50 m, with an exit onto the north ridge. Further, bypass the rocks on the right side along the ledges and come under the "Trident" gendarme, which is passed on the left upward along inclined ledges (10–12 m). Alternating belay through outcrops, when passing inclined ledges — piton belay. After the "Trident" gendarme — exit onto a sharp edge (4 m), belay through outcrops. Further movement along broken rocks to a gap. Rope descent (10–12 m), rocks with a steepness of 70°. Movement continues along the icy slope of Manas' cap, covered with snow (move in crampons). Further upward with a traverse to the right to a rocky "tooth" (150–160 m). Then movement along the rocky crest to the pre-summit gendarme — rocks of medium difficulty, 10 m. Descent into the gap (rappel — 7 m) and to the visible summit — 5 min. Total route time — 11–12 hours

2. Climbing area, ridge — С-3 Tian-Shan Talas Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m, northern ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2Б
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections 1–5 cat. diff. average steepness deg. — height difference 1000 m, avg. steepness 30°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 950 m, II cat. diff. — 350 m
6. Number of hooks for belay to create artificial support points: local — 5, ice — 2, bolted — none

The approach from the "Майские ночёвки" bivouac. From the campsite, ascend to the North ridge. Further movement is upwards along the ridge, sticking to either the left or the right side. On average, after one hour of walking, two massive gendarmes are encountered (one after another), before which it is necessary to rope up. Then:

• A small saddle
• Control cairn I (landmark - a high finger-shaped rock) Further movement is along the ridge, with a rapid gain in altitude. Against the sky above, a massive gendarme in the form of a trident can be seen, 80-100 meters to the left of the route, which is approached by the Northeast ridge. The approach to the base of the gendarme is via moderately difficult rocks. A small wall, 2-2.5 m high, is tackled directly head-on. Then, the entire massif of the gendarme is traversed from the left along inclined ledges (in the autumn-winter period, these are snow-covered), 10-12 m - a bumpy section, with piton belays. From the inclined slabs, there is an exit onto a sharp rocky outcrop, about 4 m high. There is a small platform for organizing a belay. Then, along the crumbling rocks of the ridge, 15-20 m to the descent point to the base of the snow-ice dome of the summit. The descent is via a rappel dolipher, 10-12 m with a steepness of 70°. There is a possibility to organize a descent with subsequent rope retrieval through a protrusion.

2. Climbing technique, ridge —
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Манас, 4482 m, eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections I–V cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 100 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 500 m, II cat. diff. — 500 m, III cat. diff. — 100 m
6. Pitons driven for insurance to create artificial support points: local — 5, loop — 2, bolt — none
7. Difference in travel hours — II
8. Number of nights, and their characteristics — none

Departure from the 3300 "May overnight stay" site, which is located on the left-bank moraine of the Manas glacier. Departure from the assault camp at 7:00. The approach to the route goes along the left-bank moraine. The route starts with a wide scree couloir, which descends from the East Ridge. The couloir is passed in 2 hours. The entrance to the ridge is a landmark - an inclined slab. Behind the slab, a sharp snow ridge begins - I5, 20 m. Between it and the inclined slab is the first checkpoint. Here, tie in, insurance is alternate through ledges and ice axe. On the ridge, there is a group of rocks that are bypassed on the left. Movement - 3 hours. Before reaching the big gendarme, traverse the slope from the left side along rocks of medium difficulty with a descent into a wide snow couloir. Careful insurance through ledges and rock pitons. Further ascent along the couloir to the snow saddle - 2 hours. From the saddle, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (40 m), insurance through ledges and pitons. From the rocks, exit to the snow dome (100 m) and the summit. Descent along coarse-block scree to the saddle between Bashennый Manas and Manas Glavny. Total travel hours - 11 hours.

2. Region of ascent, ridge — C-3 Tian-Shan Talass­ky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pikovyy Manas 4512, traverse via N ridge. 4th category 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2A
4. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of sections with 1–5 cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 1200 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 1400 m, II cat. diff. — 650 m — II cat. diff. — 20 m
5. Number of pitons driven for belay to create reliable anchor points: rock — 3 pcs., ice — none, bolt — none
6. Construction of via ferrata — 8
7. Number of nights and their characteristics — none

The exit to the route is carried out from the overnight stay at 3300 — DMaiskie nochyovki on the moraine of the Manas glacier. On the right side of the glacier, we approach the NE wall of p. Bashkyn Manas. To the west of the wall, a saddle is visible. Ascent to the saddle:

• Takes 1.5 hours.
• Must be done early in the morning with crampons. From the saddle, the route goes along the snowy ridge to a gendarme 7–10 m high, which is passed directly, medium-difficulty rocks (careful belay). Further, the route goes along a rocky, destroyed ridge 35–40°, gendarmeries encountered on the way are bypassed on the right along the way via easy rocks. 40–45 minutes after the start of movement from the saddle — a gap 2 m wide (pitons belay). Then movement along the ridge, consisting of large-block stones, to the summit tower 20–25 m high.

3. The summit, its height, ascent route — Dhante Manas 4512, eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3rd category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections 1-5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees — height difference 1200 m, length of sections: 1st cat. diff. — 300 m, II cat. diff. — 200 m, IV cat. diff. —
6. Number of pitons driven for protection to create artificial support points: local — 13 pcs., ice — none, rock — none
7. Number of travel hours — 12
8. Number of nights, and their characteristics — none
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification: | Participant | Petra­shko | G.A. | — Master of Sports | | ----------- | ---------- | ---- | ------------------ | | -"- | Muka­nov | K.B. | — 1st sports rank |