V. Teke (3870 m) via the East Ridge, Cat. 2B

(from "Nefertiti" campsite – 2866 m)

From the "Nefertiti" campsite, cross to the other side of the stream and begin ascending via a wide couloir between the massive rocky ridges of the massif. The landmark should be a prominent gendarme at the top of the ridge, strongly resembling the walls of the "Bastille" fortress. This is the ridge along which the route goes. The ascent up the snowy couloir (becoming scree-covered by the end of the season) takes about 2 hours; then, after a large rocky outcrop in the middle of the couloir, it is necessary to move rightwards onto the ridge – this takes 30–40 minutes.

Route Start

• The first gendarme is bypassed on the left.
• 35–40 m of free climbing, followed by a cairn.
• Then proceed along the ridge for 130–150 m with simultaneous belay. Rocky sections are bypassed on the left.
• 30–40 m of straightforward climbing leading to the ridge.
• Directly along the ridge – a gendarme, difficult climbing, 12 m long.
• Followed by a sharp snowy crest with a 35° slope, 15 m long, belay via ice axe.
• Rightwards – a 10-meter traverse along a snowy ledge.
• Then ascend upwards along a snowy slope with a 45° steepness, 35–40 m long.
• The ridge continues for 50 m with simultaneous belay; the next gendarme is bypassed on the left.
• Followed by a sharp crest, 6–8 m long, with alternating belay.
• After that, 60 m of good climbing with alternating belay, leading to a snowy ridge, 500 m long, with a 30° steepness.
• The exit is severely eroded onto the summit ridge.
• The summit cairn is located at a geodetic triangulation point.

Descent

• Descend to the left (orographically from the route) via a snowy couloir – 30–40 minutes down to the campsite.

The entire route from campsite to campsite takes 8–9 hours.

The first ascent was made by a team of climbers from the USSR Sports Committee, consisting of:

1. Malikov A.V.
2. Tashmanbetov Kh.S.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants – 6 people
2. Initial bivouac – "Nefertiti" campsite – 2866 m
3. Departure from bivouac no later than 6:00 AM
4. Group equipment: Main rope – 3 × 30/40 m. Ice screws – 2 pcs. Rock pitons (various) – 6–8 pcs. Rock hammers – 2 pcs.