7.14.15

Mt. Teke (3870 m) via North Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty (from "Nefertiti" campsite)

Depart from "Nefertiti" bivouac — 2866 m. Cross to the opposite side of the Terek river, follow its left (orographic) bank downstream to the beginning of the rightmost, straightforward rib, and start ascending to the watershed ridge. Climbing in a rope team is required in the upper third of the rib; simultaneous insurance is used. There are sections a few meters long where alternate insurance is necessary.

Reaching the ridge: beware of snow cornices!

The ridge consists of severely degraded rocks. Move simultaneously, securing the rope to rock outcrops as needed; there are rock gendarmes on the ridge. All are bypassed on simple to moderate rocks to the right. Ahead lies the summit cairn near a geodetic trig point.

From the summit, a panoramic view to the southwest is available. Western slopes are talus. Eastern slopes drop steeply with rugged ribs and couloirs.

Descent: — Retrace the ascent route across the massif; — Then descend into a broad snow couloir between Mt. Teke and "4011" (35 let Pobedy); — Continue down to "Nefertiti" campsite.

The route takes 8–9 hours.

First ascent was made on May 2, 1980, by a pair of climbers from the USSR Sports Committee Training Camp:

1. PATAEV V.N.
2. MALIKOV A.V.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants — 10 people
2. Starting bivouac — "Nefertiti" campsite
3. Departure from bivouac — no later than 6:00 AM
4. Group equipment — main rope 4 × 30 m. — rock pitons (various) — 3–4 pcs. — ice axe — 1 pc. — rock hammers — 2 pcs.