Tanasyoky Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Tene, 3870 m, via the first eastern ridge (from the Nefertiti campsite).
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I–5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees. 1000 m, II–600–650 m, II–11 — 200 m, 11 — 200 m, 402459
6. Pitons driven for insurance to create artificial support points:

• Rock — 6
• Ice — 2

7.14.17

Mt. Teke (3870 m)

(via the left, eastern edge — cat. 3A) (from the "Nefertiti" campsite — 2866 m) From the "Nefertiti" campsite, cross the stream to the other side and begin ascending via a wide couloir between the massive rocky edges of the massif. A prominent gendarme in the upper part of the edge, resembling the walls of the "Bastille" fortress, serves as a landmark. This edge remains to the right of our couloir. The ascent up the snowy (and later, debris-covered) couloir takes about 2.5 hours. Past a rocky outcrop in the middle of the couloir, with 15-meter walls and forming a shoulder at the top, ascend 200–250 m up the slope to reach the ridge at the level of the gendarme — a tower of very regular shape. This marks the beginning of the route. All gendarmes and rocky walls encountered along the ridge can generally be bypassed on the left.

• Movement along the left part of the ridge is via rocky ledges, with intermittent belaying; the difficulty of the sections is cat. II–III, up to 200–220 m.
• In the final third of the route, there is a 40-m ascent onto a gendarme via cat. III rocks.
• This is followed by a descent onto a 2–3 m wide, 30-m long saddle with a depth of up to 10–12 m. Snow cornices overhang. Belaying is thorough.
• From this point begins a fairly steep snowy ascent with individual rocky outcrops, stretching up to 100 m, with an initial slope of 45° increasing to 75°. Belaying is via ice axe, and later via pitons. The entire rocky cliff of the pre-summit triangle remains to the left.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Class of ascent. Technical
2. Area of ascent, ridge. Western Tien Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route. P. Teke, 3870 m, via the left South edge.
4. Proposed difficulty category. 2B
5. Route characteristics:

V. Teke (3870 m) via the East Ridge, Cat. 2B

(from "Nefertiti" campsite – 2866 m) From the "Nefertiti" campsite, cross to the other side of the stream and begin ascending via a wide couloir between the massive rocky ridges of the massif. The landmark should be a prominent gendarme at the top of the ridge, strongly resembling the walls of the "Bastille" fortress. This is the ridge along which the route goes. The ascent up the snowy couloir (becoming scree-covered by the end of the season) takes about 2 hours; then, after a large rocky outcrop in the middle of the couloir, it is necessary to move rightwards onto the ridge – this takes 30–40 minutes.

Route Start

• The first gendarme is bypassed on the left.
• 35–40 m of free climbing, followed by a cairn.
• Then proceed along the ridge for 130–150 m with simultaneous belay. Rocky sections are bypassed on the left.
• 30–40 m of straightforward climbing leading to the ridge.
• Directly along the ridge – a gendarme, difficult climbing, 12 m long.
• Followed by a sharp snowy crest with a 35° slope, 15 m long, belay via ice axe.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, range — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Teke, 3870 m via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 2B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1–5, average steepness in degrees. 900 m, I–700 m, II–200 m, 35°.
6. Number of pitons used for belaying to create artificial holds: Rock — 6 Ice — 2 Bolt —

Tapas­sky Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 2870 m, via the right counterfort of the northern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section R1–R5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees, length of section R1–R5 cat. diff. by steepness in degrees: 30–35; 1000 m; R1 — 300 m, R2 — 300 m.
6. Pitons driven for protection to create artificial anchor points: Rock — 2 pcs. Ice — Bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours — 7–8 h

V. Teke (3870 m)

via the right buttress of the North Ridge, Cat. 2A The ascent starts from the Nefertiti campsite. Cross to the other side of the "Terek" river, then:

• Reach the last (rightmost) ridge that leads to the crest and begin ascending along the fir-covered talus slope.
• To the left, there is a snow (scree in summer) couloir-ridge with powerful gendarmes in the upper part. The approach to the start of the ridge from the campsite takes 30 minutes. Then, ascend along the talus, heavily eroded crest to the first rock walls. Movement up to this point is simultaneous. Tie in before the rock walls. Continue ascending along the rocky sections with intermittent insurance. The sections are Cat. 1-2. The length is 180-200 m.
• An 8-9 m rock is bypassed on the left via ledges that are 30-35 m long, Cat. 2.
• Insurance is provided through protrusions. The route continues along the ridge. Insurance is provided by a rope placed around protrusions. The path leads to a snowy slope with a 30-35° incline, insured via an ice axe, 25-30 m long; there may be cornices. Before reaching the summit ridge, there is a long 130-140 m snow ascent with a slope incline of up to 40°. Insurance is provided through ice axes. The path leads to the crest. The summit point is 250-300 m to the left. Along the way, there are simple rocks, Cat. 1B-2A. Insurance is provided along the crest. A summit cairn.

3. The summit, its height, the ascent route — Tene, 3870 m, via the northern ridge.
4. The supposed category of difficulty — 1B category.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of the section R1–R5 category, average steepness in degrees — 1000 m, 1500 m — 1 category; 40°–45°.
6. Pitons hammered in for belaying to create artificial support points — Rock pitons — 3 pcs. Ice screws — 1 pc. Bolt pitons —
7. Number of climbing hours — 8–9 hours
8. Number of nights and their characteristics —
9. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification:
10. Paraev B. N. — Master of Sports

7.14.15

Mt. Teke (3870 m) via North Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty (from "Nefertiti" campsite) Depart from "Nefertiti" bivouac — 2866 m. Cross to the opposite side of the Terek river, follow its left (orographic) bank downstream to the beginning of the rightmost, straightforward rib, and start ascending to the watershed ridge. Climbing in a rope team is required in the upper third of the rib; simultaneous insurance is used. There are sections a few meters long where alternate insurance is necessary. Reaching the ridge: beware of snow cornices! The ridge consists of severely degraded rocks. Move simultaneously, securing the rope to rock outcrops as needed; there are rock gendarmes on the ridge. All are bypassed on simple to moderate rocks to the right. Ahead lies the summit cairn near a geodetic trig point. From the summit, a panoramic view to the southwest is available. Western slopes are talus. Eastern slopes drop steeply with rugged ribs and couloirs. Descent: — Retrace the ascent route across the massif; — Then descend into a broad snow couloir between Mt. Teke and "4011" (35 let Pobedy);

I. ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, range — North Tian Shan, Talas Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Yuzhny Manas, 4512 m, via the center of the north face of the eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1000 m, length of sections with 5-6 technical difficulty, 537 m, average steepness — ~75°
6. Pitons used: for belaying — rock 116, ice and bolt —; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 25, ice and bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours — 30
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two bivouacs: on the wall — semi-reclining for two; on the eastern ridge — good reclining
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification: pair — KRAPIVIN V.N., CMS; PARSHIN V.S., CMS