Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Ptitsa via the left part of the eastern wall and the southeast buttress, category 4A, by the team of the "Voshozhdenie" Alpine Sports Club (Barnaul) on July 29, 2020

I. Climbing Report

№ p.p.	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Lezhnev Anton Petrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the team members	Trufanov Maxim Sergeevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.3	Full name of the coach	Guselnikov Vitaly Mikhailovich, Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	"Voshozhdenie" Alpine Sports Club
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2016

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team On Verchina Chernaya, 1915 m, via the center of the N wall, route "Chernaya Drozda" First ascent, orient. 6Az cat. diff. (First winter ascent in this area on the Taigishon wall) Krasnoyarsk 2016

gorge

1. v. Chernaya 1915 m, via the cornices of the Northern wall, 2004 (first ascent) difficulty category
2. Team leader: Devi M.M.
3. Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain range, Taygishonok river
4. Section in the classification

22nd Open Championship

of Russia in Alpinism

2004

Rock Climbing Class

Report

of the "Voshozhdenie" climbers' sports club team (Barnaul) on the ascent to Uchiteley peak via the center of the eastern wall first ascent, estimated at 4A Participants: Ozerov I.M. Ivanov V.L. 2016

Ascent Data Sheet

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section 6.2 of the mountain route classifier.

The ascent leader and author of the description is Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from the Molodezhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the Mramorny lake side. From the lake, a trail leads towards the pass, which ends at a talus slope. The ascent is via the scree, bypassing the "ram's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

• the shortest,
• not the easiest to ascend,
• not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodezhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail follows the ridge towards Molodezhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodezhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

16 to Uchyitel peak:

The route starts from Molodezhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the peak on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is via the ascent route.

1B to Molodezhny peak

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Climbing area: Western Sayan Mountains, Ergaki Ridge
3. Ptitsa Peak, 2200 m, via the buttress on the N wall
4. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 400 m
   • Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty: 160 m
   • Average steepness of the wall section: 70°
   • Average steepness of the ridge section: 30°

I recommend approving the 5B route for the group. Balezin V.

Ascent Record

1. Region — Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan.
2. Summit — Ptitsa via the Eastern wall. "Ekho" route.
3. Proposed — Category 5A, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 400 m; main section elevation gain 300 m; average steepness of the main section 72°.

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, 6.2.
2. Peak: Ptitsa 2221 m. Centre of the SE wall
3. Claimed: 4B cat. sl. First ascent
4. Route character: Rock
5. Route characteristics:
   • Route elevation gain: 441 m
   • Route length: 550 m
   • Length of sections: II–III — 270 m, IV — 150 m, V — 130 m
   • Average steepness of the entire route: 56°

Passport

Protocol No. 12 dated 23.01.1996, item 8. 45th SK.

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Ptitsa Peak, 2220 m, S ridge.
4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent.
5. Elevation difference: 330 meters; length 430 meters; length of category 5 section 85 meters. Average steepness of the route 56°.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Ptitsa peak, height 2150 m, SE buttress, route character — rock climbing.
4. Estimated difficulty category 3A.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 400 m; section lengths: 3rd diff. cat. — 140 m, 4th diff. cat. — 80 m; average steepness of the route — 45–50°.
6. Used rock protection — 5/0 (numerator — total quantity, denominator — for creating artificial anchor points).
7. Number of moving hours — 5 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: none.