Khrebet Sarydzhaz

Video guide to climbing Khan-Tengri via the classic 5A route by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the classic route to Khan-Tengri (5A) by Dima Pavlenko.

Description of the ascent route to Khan Tengri peak via the western ridge from the Semenovsky glacier, category 5A complexity.

Ascent Passport Class of high-altitude technical ascents. Region 7.9, Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Khan-Tengri peak via the W ridge from Semenovsky glacier (variant of M. Pogrebetsky's route-31 via the SW slope). 5A category of route complexity, combined. Height difference 1400 m, average steepness of the ridge 40°, route length 3000 m. Sections of 1st category of difficulty – 1100 m, 2nd category – 350 m, 3rd category – 1300 m, 4th category – 200 m, 5th category – 50 m. Used previously fixed ropes – 700 m, total 1200 m of ropes on the route from 6100 m to 6850 m. Climbing hours — 9, days — 2. Overnight stay in a snow cave under the col between Chapayev peak and Khan-Tengri peak, 5850 m. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — CMS, Shanavazov Shanavaz Eldarovich — CMS

Ascent of Khan Tengri peak via the South-West slope, category 5B, made by a team from Severodvinsk in 1998.

Ascent Passport Ascent category: high-altitude and technical. Ascent region: Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek. Ascent route: Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest slope, 4. M. Pogrebetsky 1931. Category of difficulty: 5B Route characteristics: elevation gain: 2985 (by altimeter), ascent length: –9 km, descent length: –9.4 km, section lengths: 5th category of difficulty – 120 m,

Ascent via the center of Khan-Tengri's northern wall by a team of two in Alpine style, category 6B, with a description of the equipment and tactics used.

To the Main Judges' Panel of the 2005 Russian Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class Report On the ascent to the summit of Khan Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North Face. Combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team consisting of Tukhvatullin I.Kh. and Shabalin P.E. Ascent Passport Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier, section 7.9 Khan Tengri peak 6995 m, from S. Inylchek glacier via the center of the N. face Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes. Route type - combined Height difference of the route - 2760 m.

Report on the ascent to **peak Karly-Tau** (5550 m) in 1968, made by a group from the Kazakh RS DSO *"Spartak"* under the leadership of *V. Popov*.

7.8.3 Climbing Report on Peak Karlytau (5550 m) in July 1968 Almaty Region 1968 INTRODUCTION From July 18 to August 20, 1968, an expedition from the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Sports Society was in the area of the North Inylchek Glacier, with the goal of traversing peaks Shater and Khan-Tengri. To reach the area of operation, it was necessary to cross the Sarydzhas Ridge from the Bayankol valley. The area around Peak Marble Wall is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. In 1965, while conducting the northern traverse of the Sarydzhas Ridge, the Kazakh "Spartak" team scouted the Tengri-Tag Ridge as a potential climbing objective. It was clear that the approach from the Bayankol valley to the North Inylchek Glacier was significantly shorter than the approach via Lake Merzbacher, but the Sarydzhas Ridge presented a difficult obstacle. The saddle between peaks Karly-Tau and Kazakhstan seemed the most accessible. A reconnaissance group of 8 people led by V. Popov was sent to scout and prepare the route across the ridge. The group, departing Almaty on July 18, arrived at the "green" camp under the moraine of the Marble Wall Glacier on July 20. Further, in fulfillment of their task, the group: Reached the watershed of the Sarydzhas Ridge via the northwest ridge of Peak Karly-Tau;

Ascent certificate for Khan-Tengri peak via the North Ridge, Category 5B difficulty, combined route, 3000 m elevation gain.

Climbing Passport Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag range, 7.9 Peak Khan-Tengri, 6995 m, via North Ridge, 7.9.11/11a Category 5B, combination Route type — combined Route elevation gain — 3000 m, Route length — 5000 m, Length of sections with category V difficulty — 300 m, Average slope of the wall section — 70 degrees (6500–6800 m) Average slope of the entire route — 47 degrees

Description of the route to Peak Eleven (northeastern summit) with a complexity category of 3B, including a detailed description of the path and overcoming obstacles.

7.8.4 Route Description TO PEAK ODINNADЦATI (northeastern summit) 5437 m. Brief geography of the area. Peak Odinnadцati is located in the area of the "Zapadny Bayankol" glacier on the Sarydzhas ridge, between Peak Bayankol and an unnamed peak located northwest of Peak Semenov. The massive glaciations in this area drain into the "Zapadny Bayankol" glacier and from the southeastern slopes into the Severny Inylchek glacier. The northeastern summit of Peak Odinnadцati is predominantly snow-ice in character. Strong winds, blowing mostly from the southwest, form huge cornices on the ridge of the peak, overhanging the northwestern slopes. The ascent was first made by athletes from the Kazakh Alpine Club led by U. Usenov in August 1957. The group consisted of ten climbers, divided into five teams: U. Usenov — Domianiди Я. Brega M. — Tagabergenov M. Kaveshnikov Yu. — Tarasenko

Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the "Marble Rib" route in 1964 by a team led by V. Romanov.

Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the southwest edge (MARBLE EDGE) by the team of CS DSO "Trud" led by Master of Sports B. Romanov from August 4 to 11, 1964 Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) is located in the highest part of the Central Tien Shan, in an area where the highest peaks of this mountain system are concentrated:

Report on the first ascent of the west wall of Khan-Tengri peak (6,995 m) by the team from Odessa regional council of the "Avangard" sports society in 1982.

Consider the route via 40–3 saddle as an option of cat. 5B (record No. 10 p. 7 of the classification) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS 1982 Category 5 TECHNICAL-ALTITUDE ASCENTS group N/N not to be included in the table Order No. 525 dated 22.02.83 p. 26. 25.01.83 Report on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the west face

Report on the ascent made by the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee team to Peak Khan-Tengri via the center of the bastion of the left part of the North wall in 1998, category 6B.

7.9.15a Russian Mountaineering Championship. High-altitude technical class 1998. Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face, 7.9.12, first ascent, 6B category of difficulty (tentative) team of the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee. Team leader: Zhilin N.F. Team coach: Mikhailov A.A. PASSPORT High-altitude technical class. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face.