Video guide to the classic route to Khan-Tengri (5A) by Dima Pavlenko.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek.
3. Ascent route: Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest slope, 4. M. Pogrebetsky 1931.
4. Category of difficulty: 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 2985 (by altimeter), ascent length: –9 km, descent length: –9.4 km, section lengths: 5th category of difficulty – 120 m,

Climbing Passport

1. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag range, 7.9
2. Peak Khan-Tengri, 6995 m, via North Ridge, 7.9.11/11a
3. Category 5B, combination
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain — 3000 m, Route length — 5000 m, Length of sections with category V difficulty — 300 m, Average slope of the wall section — 70 degrees (6500–6800 m) Average slope of the entire route — 47 degrees

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Route combination: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team consisting of Tukhvatullin I.Kh. and Shabalin P.E.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S.Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
2. Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from S.Inylchek glacier via the center of the N face
3. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes.
4. Route type — combined

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents.
2. Region 7.9, Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Khan-Tengri peak via the W ridge from Semenovsky glacier (variant of M. Pogrebetsky's route-31 via the SW slope).
4. 5A category of route complexity, combined.
5. Height difference 1400 m, average steepness of the ridge 40°, route length 3000 m. Sections of 1st category of difficulty – 1100 m, 2nd category – 350 m, 3rd category – 1300 m, 4th category – 200 m, 5th category – 50 m.
6. Used previously fixed ropes – 700 m, total 1200 m of ropes on the route from 6100 m to 6850 m.
7. Climbing hours — 9, days — 2.
8. Overnight stay in a snow cave under the col between Chapayev peak and Khan-Tengri peak, 5850 m.
9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — CMS, Shanavazov Shanavaz Eldarovich — CMS

7.8.3

Climbing Report on Peak Karlytau (5550 m) in July 1968

Almaty Region

1968

INTRODUCTION

From July 18 to August 20, 1968, an expedition from the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Sports Society was in the area of the North Inylchek Glacier, with the goal of traversing peaks Shater and Khan-Tengri. To reach the area of operation, it was necessary to cross the Sarydzhas Ridge from the Bayankol valley. The area around Peak Marble Wall is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. In 1965, while conducting the northern traverse of the Sarydzhas Ridge, the Kazakh "Spartak" team scouted the Tengri-Tag Ridge as a potential climbing objective. It was clear that the approach from the Bayankol valley to the North Inylchek Glacier was significantly shorter than the approach via Lake Merzbacher, but the Sarydzhas Ridge presented a difficult obstacle. The saddle between peaks Karly-Tau and Kazakhstan seemed the most accessible. A reconnaissance group of 8 people led by V. Popov was sent to scout and prepare the route across the ridge. The group, departing Almaty on July 18, arrived at the "green" camp under the moraine of the Marble Wall Glacier on July 20. Further, in fulfillment of their task, the group:

• Reached the watershed of the Sarydzhas Ridge via the northwest ridge of Peak Karly-Tau;

Consider the route via 40–3 saddle as an option of cat. 5B (record No. 10 p. 7 of the classification) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS 1982 Category 5 TECHNICAL-ALTITUDE ASCENTS group N/N not to be included in the table Order No. 525 dated 22.02.83 p. 26. 25.01.83

Report

on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the west face

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Combination of routes: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team, consisting of Tukhvatullin I. Kh. and Shabalin P. E., undertook the ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
2. Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from the South Inylchek glacier via the center of the North face
3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of routes Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88.
4. Route type – combined

7.9.15a

Russian Mountaineering Championship. High-altitude technical class 1998.

Report

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face, 7.9.12, first ascent, 6B category of difficulty (tentative) team of the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee. Team leader: Zhilin N.F. Team coach: Mikhailov A.A.

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class.
2. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face.

Report

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the southwest edge (MARBLE EDGE) by the team of CS DSO "Trud" led by Master of Sports B. Romanov from August 4 to 11, 1964 Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) is located in the highest part of the Central Tien Shan, in an area where the highest peaks of this mountain system are concentrated: