To the Main Judges' Panel of the 2005 Russian Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Khan Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North Face. Combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team consisting of Tukhvatullin I.Kh. and Shabalin P.E.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
2. Khan Tengri peak 6995 m, from S. Inylchek glacier via the center of the N. face
3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes.
4. Route type - combined
5. Height difference of the route - 2760 m.

Author: Yuri Kruglov, Sevastopol Today we climbed "Mezhdubolie" - a new route on Merdven-Kaya (Uarch-Kaya). No bolts! The idea to climb this beautiful and untouched line between Alina and RedFox on Merdven-Kaya (Uarch-Kaya) came to my mind a week ago, when we were climbing the "Alina" route. Right from the bottom, there's excellent terrain for climbing and natural protection. So we decided to tackle this line. Today, the idea was realized. An excellent route, pure technical climbing, no bolts, no pre-drilled holes, no prior preparation, honestly from the bottom up in 2 hours 0 minutes... The third pitch - we climbed straight up - very logical. We intersected the RedFox line, but didn't encounter a single bolt on the way until we reached the R5 station of RedFox. We finished the last pitch on it. The whole climb took 2 hours. Useful gear:

• several small stoppers
• several small aliens
• a set of cams from 0.5 to 4