Video guide to the classic route to Khan-Tengri (5A) by Dima Pavlenko.

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR mountaineering championship 1974. Ascent class I - High-altitude technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan, North Inylchek glacier 3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights — northwest wall of Peak Przhevalsky, 6400 m. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1835 m, average steepness 70°, length of difficult sections 832 m 5. Pitons used: rock 182 ice 17, bolted 2 6. Number of climbing hours — 90

Ascent Log

1. Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge, Bayankol valley, 7.17.06
2. Peak Marmor Wall (6350 m) via the right western counterfort of the Northwest ridge.
3. Category 5A, second ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 2650 m Route length: 4600 m Length of Category V sections — 930 m. Average slope

• Main part of the route 40° (4100 m – 6100 m)

Passport

1. Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge.
2. Peak Marmorная стена (6350 m), via the right Western counterfort of the North-West ridge.
3. Category 5A (third ascent).
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 2650 m; route length — 4600 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty: 900 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 40° (4200 m – 6100 m); — whole route — 37° (3700 m – 6350 m).
6. Pitons left on the route: 4; including "drills": 1. Pitons used on the route: 10; including "drills": 8.

WORLD CUP HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS Report of the national team of the Republic of Kazakhstan on the ascent of Mramornaya стена peak via the buttress of the North face, cat. dif. 5A

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Bayankol, at the junction of the Meridionalny and Sarydzhas ridges,
2. Name of the peak, route name: Mramornaya стена via the buttress of the North face
3. Cat. dif.: 5A
4. Route type: Combined
5. Height difference of the route: 2500 m Route length: 5000 m

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Chapayeva, 6371, via the Western part of the South face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 2371 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 2050 m, average slope – 55°.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | rock | ice | bolt |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Chapayev, 6371.0 m, via the Southeast ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 2200 m. Section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 810 m. 6th difficulty category — 65 m. Average steepness of the rocky part of the route — 60°, snowy-icy part — 42°.

MINISTRY OF SPORT, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2013 Class of High-Altitude Ascents

Report

Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko) 6B category of complexity.

Passport of the Ascent

1. Region — Central Tien Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.18.
2. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko).

Ascent Record

1. Region — Central Tien-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, September 7, 1918
2. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via SW facet of SW edge (V. Sviridenko)
3. Complexity category — 6B
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 2395 m, elevation gain of the wall section — 1450 m, route length — 3455 m, length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 170 m, 5th category — 700 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge (KMGV section No. – 7.9)
2. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via SW crest SSW rib (V. Sviridenko, 82)
3. 6B category of difficulty
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain — 2595 m. Route length — 3720 m. Length of sections with 5 category of difficulty — 460 m, 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 58°, entire route — 49°
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, including bolted – 0. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Removable bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Total artificial climbing anchors used – 13.
7. Team's total climbing hours – 56, days – 7.