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Route Description: левой части ЮЗ баст, и ЮЗ ребру
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the "Marble Rib" route in 1964 by a team led by V. Romanov.
Report
on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the southwest edge (MARBLE EDGE)
by the team of CS DSO "Trud" led by Master of Sports B. Romanov
from August 4 to 11, 1964
Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) is located in the highest part
of the Central Tien Shan, in an area where the highest peaks of this mountain system are concentrated:
Route Description: Между Грудей
SSummitMateDescription of the "Four between the Breasts" route, category 4Б, on Sokol Mountain, including details on passage, belay points, and required equipment.
Falcon — 18
Author: Sovich Alexey, Kiev. The route description is based on the state as of August 19, 2003. Photos taken with a "Smena-8M" camera. "Fourth between the breasts" route, 4B category A fairly interesting 4B route. It can be a good warm-up before attempting Sokol's 5th category routes. Over the years, the route has changed slightly — it has become a bit more challenging:
- Rockfalls have destroyed several convenient trees.
- Water flows have smoothed out the relief on the second key — the лобке (forehead).
- For various reasons, there are fewer pitons on the route. In my opinion, all these changes have only made the route more mature. I believe the route is even more interesting than "White Triangle" (5A), especially in light of the recent changes. You also need to make your own belay points — there aren't many pitons here. For the route, it's sufficient to have: