7.9.15a

Russian Mountaineering Championship. High-altitude technical class 1998.

Report

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face, 7.9.12, first ascent, 6B category of difficulty (tentative)

team of the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee.

Team leader: Zhilin N.F. Team coach: Mikhailov A.A.

PASSPORT

High-altitude technical class.
Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face.
Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
Elevation gain: 2710 m; length - 3590 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 1890 m; 6A-6B category of difficulty - 670 m. Average steepness:
- wall part of the route - 64° (5100-6300 m);
- entire route - 52° (4300-7010 m).
Number of pitons used:

	rock	chockstones	ice
	78	147	88
preliminary processing	4	7	0

Team's climbing hours: 89.5, including time for preliminary route processing; days: 9 and days for preliminary route processing: 1.
Night bivouacs: 1st - 5100 m, uncomfortable in a tent. 2nd, 3rd - 5500 m, reclining in a tent. 4th - 5700 m, reclining in a tent. 5th - 5900 m, reclining in a tent. 6th - 6100 m, reclining in a tent. 7th - 6400 m, reclining in a tent. 8th - 6900 m, comfortable in a tent.
Team leader: Zhilin Nikolai Fedorovich - Master of Sports

Team members:
- Ermachek Yurii Vladimirovich - Master of Sports
- Pavlenko Dmitrii Vladimirovich - Candidate Master of Sports
Coach: Mikhailov Alexander Alexandrovich - Master of Sports, Honored Coach of Russia
Departure to the route: August 12, 1998.

Summit: August 20, 1998.

Return: August 20, 1998.
Organization: Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee.

620151 Ekaterinburg, L-151, Malysheva 60, tel. (3432) 51-33-02

PHOTO 1. TEAM PHOTO AT THE SUMMIT. August 20, 1998.

route of the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee team
Gorbenko, 87, (6B)
Pogorelov, 93, (6B)
Studenin, 74, (6B)
Myslovskii, 74, (6B)
Koroteev, 86, (6A)
Zakharov, 87, (6A)
Dediй, 90, (6A)
Moiseev, 88, (6A)
Grekov, 93, (6A)

ROUTE PROFILE M 1:18000

PHOTO 4. TECHNICAL PHOTOGRAPH OF THE ROUTE

ROUTE DESCRIPTION BY SECTIONS

Section R0-R1. Snow-ice ascent to the first bergschrund.
Sections R1-R10. After crossing the bergschrund, movement on ice terrain with a steepness of 45-65° to the base of the rock bastion on the left part of the North face.
Section 10-11. Ice river on a vertical rock section about 50 m long.
Section 11-14. After crossing the frozen waterfall, movement to the left upwards to the right in the direction of the ice chute on the right side of the bastion's base.
Section 14-15. Ice chute.
Section 15-16. Internal corner.
Section 16-17. Rock wall.
Section 17-18. Twenty-meter traverse from right to left to the second bivouac site.
Sections R19-R20. Key 200-meter vertical section of the route. Extremely difficult climbing, in the lower third of the section using undercling techniques due to the specific character of the tile-like rock terrain. At the end of the section, bivouac #4.
Sections R20-R22. Series of rock walls with rimed ice. Strenuous climbing using artificial technical aids (IT) in some places. The section ends at the site of bivouac #5.
Sections R23-R25. Steepness of this section is slightly greater than the previous one. Climbing is still difficult and strenuous, using IT in some places where the terrain is overhanging. Height 6100 m. Bivouac #6.
Section R29-R32. Final sections of 6th category of difficulty leading to the pre-summit ridge.

TACTICAL ACTIONS OF THE TEAM

The main factors in developing the tactical plan were:

great steepness, length, and elevation gain of the route;
combined nature of the terrain with frequent changes in its forms;
location of the main problematic wall sections above 5000 m, difficult for passage and organization of protection;
psychological tension of the route.

In accordance with this, a tactical plan was developed, providing for the following:

processing of the lower section of the route in one day;
planned bivouac sites at around 5100 m, 5500 m, 5700 m, 5900 m, 6100 m, 6400 m, and 6900 m;
acclimatization climbs via the north ridge of Chapayev peak;
possibility of processing the route to a significant height during the ascent (taking five ropes), if the terrain or weather conditions require it;
visual and radio communication between the team and the base camp;
descent from the summit via the North ridge of Chapayev peak;
presence of a rescue team of 4 people in the base camp.

In accordance with the tactical plan, on August 9, the start of the route was processed, and the site of the first bivouac was determined. Before that, team members climbed Khan-Tengri peak via the classic route from the North Inylchek glacier.

During the ascent, bivouac sites corresponded to those planned in the tactical plan.

Good technical preparation of all team members allowed for regular changes of the lead climber. During the ascent, lead climbers were changed throughout the day.

The team had:

a first-aid kit with a sufficient set of medications;
two gas burners;
sufficient gas supply;
a high-altitude tent.

BRIEF REVIEW OF THE CLIMBING AREA

Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m), according to the latest data, is the northernmost seven-thousander in the world, located in the eastern part of Central Tian Shan, known as Tengri-Tag.

The nodal element of this system is the Meridional ridge, 110 km long. It is connected to the latitudinal parallel ridges:

Sarydzhas;
Tengri-Tag;
Kokshaal-Tau.

In the Tengri-Tag ridge, separating the North and South Inylchek glaciers, the marble giant Khan-Tengri is located. The definition "harsh climate with unstable weather" accurately reflects the Tian Shan meteorological conditions, especially in the high-altitude part, in the area of Khan-Tengri and Pobeda peaks. (Ya. Arkin. "Wind of Wanderings" No. 24, 1989).

According to data systematized by Master of Sports Stepanov I.V., 12 routes have been laid on Khan-Tengri from the North, 9 of which are wall routes.

The giant bastion in the left, steepest part of the North face, adjacent in its upper part (6300-6400 m) to its Eastern counterfort, remained unclimbed.

This, perhaps the last problematic route on the North face of Khan-Tengri, was chosen and climbed by the team of the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee within the framework of the 1998 Russian Championship.

PHOTO 3. PHOTOPANORAMA OF THE KHAN-TENGRI AREA KHAN-TENGRI 7010 m NORTH RIDGE OF CHAPAYEV PEAK 6100 m

MAP-SCHEME OF THE AREA

PHOTO 2. ON THE RIGHT

PHOTO 6. SECTION 18-19 AND PATHFINDING

PHOTO 7. SECTION 19-20

PHOTO 8. SECTION 25-26

Protocol

of the review of the ascent by the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee team on Khan-Tengri peak via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face. August 21, 1998. North Inylchek

Present: Team coach Mikhailov A.A., team leader Zhilin N.F., team members Ermachek Yu.V., Pavlenko D.V., team leader of the Rostov Oblast Sports Committee, Honored Master of Sports Pogorelov A.G., head of the rescue team of the Khan-Tengri Mountaineering and Alpine Camp (MAL), Honored Master of Sports Moiseev Yu.M.

Mikhailov: A review is being conducted of the ascent on Khan-Tengri peak via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face by the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee team within the framework of the 1998 Russian Championship in the high-altitude technical class. The floor is given to the team leader and team members.

Zhilin: The route has a combined character. The lower ice part from the first bergschrund (4400 m) to the base of the frozen waterfall (5000 m) has an average steepness of more than 50°, with some sections having a steepness of up to 70°. The main wall part of the route, located between 5000 m and 6300 m, is a giant rock bastion with a characteristic 200-meter vertical section in its lower half. In the upper part, the bastion adjoins the Eastern counterfort of the North face. The next key section is the marble "fish-scale" rock of the pre-summit tower between 6400 m and 6700 m. Then follows a very labor-intensive section of steep snow on the Eastern ridge, leading to the pre-summit dome at around 6900 m. Movement on the dome is not technically difficult. Considering these features of the route, a tactical plan was developed, providing for the passage of the route in 7 days with a reserve day for bad weather and one day for preliminary processing.

Zhilin: The route corresponds to 6B category of difficulty, does not require mastery of the entire arsenal of rock and ice climbing techniques. It is logical and safe. No comments or issues. I've been climbing with Ermachek for many years. I climbed Makalu with Dima Pavlenko.

Ermachek: The route was proposed by coach Mikhailov back in 1995. I'm very glad we climbed this new, complex, and interesting route. Unfortunately, A. Bolotov couldn't join us for this expedition after his spring ascent on Everest. I agree with Zhilin that the route corresponds to 6B category of difficulty technically.

I'd like to especially note Nikolai Zhilin's role as team leader. In 1994, under his leadership, the team climbed a variant of Zakharov's route on the North face of Khan-Tengri. He is a leader in all respects: technical mastery, tactical thinking, choice of bivouac sites.

Pavlenko: I didn't expect the route to be so difficult. I'm glad I got to lead on rocks and ice a lot. I've never climbed routes of this complexity on Central Tian Shan before, although I had been to Khan-Tengri and Pobeda before.

Mikhailov: The route was climbed with necessary safety measures, reliably, and competently. The tactical plan was followed without deviations. The ascent should be counted for the team members.

Pogorelov A.G.: A beautiful, logical route of the highest category of difficulty was climbed. I want to note the following: 1. For many years (since 1993) in our mountains, a first ascent of a high-altitude technical route of this level has been achieved.

High technical complexity of the bastion on the left part of the North face and its greatest steepness compared to other routes, as well as the wall character of the route as a whole until the exit to the pre-summit dome.

The steepness of the snow sections after the upper belt of loose rocks resembles vertical, "fir-tree" Himalayan snow.

The well-known North face of Khan-Tengri in July was practically in winter conditions. In the constantly bad weather of Central Tian Shan, a new problematic route was climbed for the first time by a team of three people.

Team coach (signature) Mikhailov A.A. Review secretary (signature) Zhilin N.F.

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