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Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Area 3. Peak, its height, ascent route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: 6. Number of pitons for belay and descent organization: 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights and their characteristics first ascent Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa tourist center; Ak-Sai glacier cirque. v. Korona (I-st tower),

Route Description

From the foot of the Vrona Glacier, initially move along the talus, then along the right (orographically) side of the glacier in the direction of the saddle between the I and II Towers of Vrona. From the gendarme V. Korona, move in crampons. The bergschrund is passed via a snow bridge in the right part of the glacier. Further, bypass the black gendarme on the right, ending at the saddle with a yellow saw-tooth wall. The exit to the saddle is between the yellow wall and a heavily destroyed gendarme. Ascent up the wall (7 m, 80°) with piton belay, then move along the ridge to the top of the gendarme (belay via protrusions). At the top - control cairn. Further, descend down to the gap between the saw-tooth gendarme and the I Tower of Vrona:

• Descend 8 m to a square ledge;
• From it, descend sportingly (10–12 m, 80°) into the gap. From the gap:
• Ascend right-upwards along a sheer wall (4 m, 90°) - piton belay;
• Further ascent along inclined slabs (60 m, 30°) and exit via ledges to the summit.

Route Ascent to Korona peak, 1st - 2nd towers, 4A cat. diff. B. Gavrilov, '56

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via ice wall, 3rd cat. diff., ice-snow route. 4. Assumed category — (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 610 m. Avg. slope — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons hammered in: rock 9 placements ·18

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ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SIMVOLDS, 1:5000

Оya­tsa ma­pu­rya­ta­po sections

Sect. 3. The start of the route is to the right of a pronounced rocky outcrop. The bergschrund wall is 3–5 meters. Then, along the icy slope, along the rocks to the right of K. Kelyugin's route, up the S wall, 3rd grade. Belaying:

• through ice screws Movement:
• on a double rope
• with the use of ice axes (French: piolet-traction is not mentioned but "айс-фи­фи" is translated as "ice fifis" or more likely "ice axes" in this context, but it is kept as "ice-fifi" or simply using "crampons" and tools for self-arrest) is not accurate here, so it is translated as "ice-fifi" Sect. 3. An ice step with a steepness of up to 60°, then under the rocks of the left side, the ascent is 16–20 meters. Belaying through ice screws, organization of handrails, rope handling to the first. In these areas, preliminary processing with 6 ropes. Sect. 3–6. Ice slope up to 55° along the rocky side. Entrance to the shoulder of the western counterfort. Before exiting to the shoulder, the steepness of the ice is up to 60°. Movement with the organization of handrails and rope handling to the first. Belaying through ice screws, using ice-fifi and ice axe. Control cairn in the area of section No.4. Sect. 8–10. Movement along the rocks, 3rd cat. diff., exit to the cushion of the Korona glacier and further along the route 3A cat. diff. to the Korona (I-ya) summit. Alternating and simultaneous movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks. On the shoulder of the western counterfort — a control cairn. Sect. 10–12. Along the icy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, exit to the saddle between the I-st and II-nd towers. From the saddle, 1.5 ropes to the summit. Alternating movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks.

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. 4. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 7. Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 8. Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing).

Ascent report for the first ascent of the route to Pik Korona 1st Tower via the north face (ice gully).

Ascent Details

1. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa valley. Pik Korona 1st Tower, 4810 m, via the ice gully on the north face. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 800 m. Route length: 1050 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 400 m, II — 100 m, III — 350 m, IV — 100 m, V — 100 m,
3. Average slope: main part of the route — 55° Total route — 45°