Route Description

From the foot of the Vrona Glacier, initially move along the talus, then along the right (orographically) side of the glacier in the direction of the saddle between the I and II Towers of Vrona.

From the gendarme V. Korona, move in crampons. The bergschrund is passed via a snow bridge in the right part of the glacier. Further, bypass the black gendarme on the right, ending at the saddle with a yellow saw-tooth wall. The exit to the saddle is between the yellow wall and a heavily destroyed gendarme.

Ascent up the wall (7 m, 80°) with piton belay, then move along the ridge to the top of the gendarme (belay via protrusions). At the top - control cairn.

Further, descend down to the gap between the saw-tooth gendarme and the I Tower of Vrona:

• Descend 8 m to a square ledge;
• From it, descend sportingly (10–12 m, 80°) into the gap.

From the gap:

• Ascend right-upwards along a sheer wall (4 m, 90°) - piton belay;
• Further ascent along inclined slabs (60 m, 30°) and exit via ledges to the summit.

Descend along the ascent route to the gap between the I Tower and the saw-tooth gendarme:

• Descend into the gap sportingly;
• Further, along a narrow snow-ice couloir (k.r.k.) to the exit onto the ascent path;
• Then again descend along the ascent path.