Ко­ро­на (1-я), 4810 м becomes Korona (1-я), 4810 m

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Approach to the route from the side of the Учи­тель glacier from Ratzek hut — 3 hours. Move along the central moraine of the Учи­тель glacier in the direction of a clearly visible peak in the western ridge of Ко­рона (1-й), to the right of the Плотни­ков route. Section R0–R1. From the bergschrund move up and left along the несложному ice in the direction of a clearly visible ice couloir. 150 m, 40°, III. Section R1–R2. Up the ice couloir to the beginning of несложного combined climbing. 40 m, 65°, IV. Section R2–R3. Move along the ice and несложным rocks first left and up, then right and up in the direction of the ice rivulet. 70 m, 65°, IV. Section R3–R4. Up the ice rivulet to the snow field in front of the rock step. 50 m, 70°, IV+. Section R4–R5. Traverse right along the snow-ice field to the rock step. 50 m, 40°, III. Section R5–R6.

In the western spur of the 1st tower of the Corona, there is a separate peak (height 4300 m). The Northeast wall of this peak drops 500 meters towards the Uchitel glacier. We laid out the route along the most logical path on the wall. The "Discovery" route starts with a steep avalanche-prone ascent under the bergschrund, and then follows ice couloirs through a short rocky belt to the western ridge of the peak. The route is interesting from an educational perspective. Here, in miniature, various terrain types are encountered, and techniques for winter mixed climbing on rocks and ice couloirs are mastered. In case of difficulties, it's always possible to descend. One of the highlights of the route for us was the long ridge, where we constantly had to climb somewhere. If we compare the route to other 4B routes in the area, it's more challenging than the popular 4B on Baychechek through the "snot". Sections similar to the key "snot" are encountered early on in the route. Such mixed sections are more characteristic of 5A (the "Mobilnykh" route on Corona). However, due to the route's relatively short length, I would categorize its difficulty as 4B rather than 5A. The route was completed in a day. All sections were climbed using free climbing; we left no hardware or rope loops behind, as we descended via a couloir (near the Plotnikov 5A route) to the Koronsky glacier. This variant added difficulties with a lengthy traverse, but ultimately, we managed without rappels. I would recommend climbing this route exclusively in winter. In the summer, it's likely to be heavily rockfall-prone. On the R2–R3 section The beginning of the rocky step

Ascent Passport.

1. Type of ascent: winter
2. Region of ascent: Tian-Shan.
3. Peak Korona (4855 m) from the North
4. Category of difficulty: 5B (approximate) first ascent
5. Route characteristics: route length — 1395 m, wall height difference — 900 m, average steepness of the route (bergshrund — plateau) — 64°
6. Number of pitons: rock, bolt, nut, and ice protection elements — 60

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Passport

Climbing category — winter I. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range

1. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via NW wall ice cascades, category I route. Presumed difficulty cat. — 6A, first ascent, combined. Height difference: 1210 m, length — 1400 m. Length of 5th — 6th difficulty sections — 980 m. Average slope — 63°. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | | :--: | :----: | :-: | | 87⁄52 | 37⁄75 | 55⁄0 |
2. Climbing hours: 42 h, days — 5