Route Description

December 2, 2025

expedition first ascent ice climbing ice technique mountaineering trip report

Route:ледовой речке С стены

Ascent report for the first ascent of the route to Pik Korona 1st Tower via the north face (ice gully).

Ascent Details

Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa valley.

Pik Korona 1st Tower, 4810 m, via the ice gully on the north face. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.

Route type: ice.

Elevation gain: 800 m.

Route length: 1050 m.

Section lengths: I — 400 m, II — 100 m, III — 350 m, IV — 100 m, V — 100 m,
Average slope: main part of the route — 55°

Total route — 45°

Number of "pitches" left on the route: total — 0;
Total equipment used on the route: ice screws — 55, rock pitons — 0, chockstones — 0.
Total number of artificial points of support (AFS) used — 0 pcs.
Team's total climbing time: 12 hours, 1 day (no overnight stay)
Team members:

Sergey Seliverstov (team leader), Pavel Vyazovetsky (Moscow State University).

Coach — Fyodor Popov
Departure to the route: 6:00, January 3, 2013.

Reached the summit: 15:00, January 3, 2013. Returned to Base Camp: 18:00, January 3, 2013.

General View of the Summit

Route diagram

Route profile

Route Description

Departure from "Ratsek" campsite — 6 hours. Approach to the route — 8 hours. Ascent to the summit — 15 hours. Descent to "Ratsek" campsite — 18 hours. Approach via moraines past the "Nauka" hut, through the "Uchitel" glacier. Approaching the bergschrund took 2 hours.

R0–R1. Crossing a small bergschrund and traversing simple ice, 25–30°, 50 m., II.
R1–R2. Uncomplicated ice, 40–45°, 200 m., III.
R2–R3. Steep, wide ice gully, 50–55°, 100 m., IV.
R3–R4. The gully becomes steep and narrow, местами less than a meter wide. At the exit, some rock outcrops need to be gripped, and ice rivulets need to be traversed. 60–65°, 100 m., V.
R4–R5. Exit onto a snowy slope, and ascend towards the first tower.
R5–R6. Ice gully typically used for descending from the first tower, 40–45°, 150 m., III. Reach a scree saddle to the left of the first tower.
R6–R7. Traverse right on несложным скалам to the summit. 25–30°, 50 m., II.

Descent from the tower via the ascent route. On the first rappel, be cautious of the ice — loose rocks above can be dislodged by the rope. Stay close to the left wall. There are rappel anchors throughout. Descend to the glacier and proceed to "Ratsek" campsite.