Passport

1. Technical Class
2. Ala-Archa, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Pik Box, 4240 m, via the left part of the North face
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Route height difference: 798 m Wall section height difference: 520 m Route length: 1175 m Wall section length: 545 m Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty: 455 m,

Ministry of Sports and Tourism of Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Alpinism Championship

2015

Ice and Snow Climbing Category

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Boks 4293 m via the left part of the north wall (Mikhailov's route, 5B category)

August 8

1. Region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai valley
2. Summit — Boks 4293 m via the left part of the N wall (Mikhailov's route)

Report

On ascending peak Bokh via the route on the left part of the S wall (Mikhailova M.M.) 5B category of complexity by the team of a/c Black Ice for the period from January 4 to January 6, 2020

I. Climbing Report

Report on the first ascent of the route on p. Box via the left part of the north wall. Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Box, 4240 m, via the left part of the north wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. The nature of the route is combined. Height difference of the route: 800 m. Route length: 1100 m
2. Length of sections: I — 400 m, II — 40 m, III — 100 m, IV — 155 m, V — 280 m, VI — 120 m.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route — 75–80°. Total route — 50°.
4. Hooks left on the route: total — 7.

Route 5A cat. sl., description compiled by Aksenov V.A.

General Information about the Climbing Area

Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" is located in the Kyrgyz Range, part of the Western Tian Shan system, and belongs to the Alamedin River basin. The northeastern and northern slopes of the summit descend to the glacier of the Salyk River basin, which flows into the Alamedin River. The northwestern slopes of the summit, covered with ice, abruptly break off to the Peremin Glacier, located between the slopes of this summit and the northern peak of the Alamedin Wall. The southern slopes descend to the Ozorovsky Glacier in the Alamedin River basin. To the east and west of Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" are peaks that are of significant interest to climbers. The height of the summit above sea level is 4650 m, with a relative height of about 1200 m. In terms of sports, Peak "XXII Congress" is of significant interest. To the west, a ridge extends with an unnamed peak. The ascent along the northwestern counterfort, followed by a traverse of both peaks, is a route of the highest category of difficulty.

I. Climbing category: — technical II. Climbing area: — Kirghizskiy Ala-Too III. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Izyiskatel' 4400 m from the North. IV. Proposed difficulty category — 2B V. Route characteristics: — height difference 670 m; complex section length 80 m; average steepness 40° VI. Pitons hammered: for belay — 4 ice screws. VII. Number of travel hours — 5; VIII. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification: Leader: BOGOLYUBOV V.V. — 3rd sports category. Participants:

1. Ascent category — snow and ice
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Peak Izyskatel (4400 m) via the center of the northwest face
4. Proposed category difficulty — 3B
5. Height difference — 300 m Route length — 400 m. Average steepness — 50°
6. Pitons driven — 31/0 (ice screws)
7. Climbing hours — 4.5
8. Base camp — hut near Koronsky glacier
9. Rodikov A.P. — Candidate Master of Sports

Routes to the peak Izmaylovskiy

4400 m

3. Along the S.E. ridge 2A cat. dif. V. Vozopotov, 82

1. Along the W. ridge from the Severo-Izyumskiy to the Crown 3B cat. dif. V. Glukhov, 67 Snow-ice slope 40° 60 m
2. Along the center of the n.w. wall 3B cat. dif. V. Rodikov, 33 Snow-ice slope 45° 50 m

320 m 45–50°

85 m 45–50°

Report on the first ascent of the route to the peak Izyiskatel via the southern ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Izyiskatel 4400 m. Proposed category 4B, first ascent. The nature of the route is rocky. The height difference of the route is 500 m. The length of the route is 1050 m.
2. Length of sections: II — 500 m, III — 350 m, IV — 150 m, V — 50 m,
3. Average slope: main (wall) part of the route — 60° Total route — 30°
4. Hooks left on the route: total — 0;
5. Used in total on the route: rock pitons — 7, chocks — 20.
6. Used in total artificial climbing holds (ACH) — 0 pcs.

Ascent Plan

The ascent of Peak Sovetsky Kyrgyzstan from the south along the ridge between the Ozarovsky and Pastukhov glaciers was conducted as part of the overall plan of the LOS DSO "TRUD" team, which participated in the 1962 USSR championship in the traverse class (Alamedin Wall). The ascent to Peak Sovetsky Kyrgyzstan (4840 m) via the specified route was done for the first time, and a first ascent was made to the West Kyrgyzstan peak (4820 m). According to the plan for reconnaissance and training ascents, two groups:

• Slyozin Yu.B. — Master of Sports
• Shevchenko Yu.S. — 1st category as well as
• Ivanova T.G. — 1st category
• Yagotints V.D. — 2nd category were to reach the Ozarovsky South glacier cirque, inspect part of the Alamedin Wall traverse, and ascend Peak Sovetsky Kyrgyzstan from the south. Depending on the complexity and length of the route, as well as the participants' well-being, the ascent was to be made either separately with a corresponding interval or simultaneously by the entire foursome under Slyozin's leadership.