Ii a c ii o p t

I. Season­ — winter 2. Tien-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge 3. Semenov-Tian-Shansky Peak (4875 m) via right side of West Face, combined route 4. Category­ — 5B 5. Height difference: 175 m, length­ — 1600 m Length of sections with 5­–6 cat. diff.­ — 600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route­ — 65° (3700­–4300) 6. Pitons hammered in:

Passport

I. Category — technical. 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai glacier. 3. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall. 4. Route 5B category of difficulty, combined. 5. Height difference — 970 m, main part of the route height difference — 565 m, average steepness — 68–70 degrees, Length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 120 m. 6. Pitons driven: rock blade pitons ice screw 57 0 64 4 IO 0 5 0

Route description by sections R0–R1 — steepness 80°, cracks, well-suited for 2.5–5 cm offset wired nuts, many loose rocks; R1–R3 — everything is available for organizing protection and free climbing; R3–R4 — monolithic wall 40 meters long with a steepness of 75°, smooth, passed through a crack 10–15 cm wide, very difficult climbing, as the crack edges are smooth, large nuts and cams are required for protection; R4–R6 — everything is available; R6–R7 — relief is shallow, mostly shallow cracks, climbed using positive holds, short pitons and small stoppers; R7–R8 — an open corner with a shallow crack 2.5–3.5 cm wide, crack is blind, relief is shallow — sloping shelves 1.5–3 cm wide, 20–40°; R8–R9 — the same as R7–R8, but with less steepness — 70°; R9–R10 — an open blind corner, walls are smooth, 2 expansion bolts were hammered and left for protection, at the exit from the corner there is an overhanging blind crack 3–4 cm wide, 50–80

Photo of the wall on the left. Taken on February 17, 1988 at 18:00. "Triplet" lens, Φ = 40 mm, distance 2 km, height 4300 m.

н. Cewanoba-Tay­бinows­кого 10,15 a.m. August 10, 2008

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Technical class 2. Tian­–Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge 3. Peak Semenova­–Tian­–Shansky, 4875 m, via central bastion of W. wall 4. Proposed — 6A cat. dif., first ascent 5. Height difference: 975 m, (main part of the route 560 m), length 2000 m length of sections with 5­–6 cat. dif. — 480 m, average steepness of main part of the route 72° 6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |

Description of the route by sections.

sec. 0–I. Steep hard ice. sec. I–2. Destroyed rock wall. sec. 2–3. Snow-covered shelves. Control tur. sec. 3–4. Inner corner filled with ice, then a snow-covered shelf entering a steep rocky ridge. sec. 4–5. Along the ridge, first on the left in the direction of travel, then with the help of ITO, transition to the right part of the ridge. sec. 5–6. Steep rocky ridge leads to a snowy shelf. sec. 6–7. Wall with small gentle holds. sec. 7–8. Traverse through a couloir to a large shelf. sec. 8–9. Rocky wall, complex climbing, few holds, pendulum used for passage. At the end of the section, relief like "ram's foreheads".

3.4 Cenoboo 4875 m, 14:023 h

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Winter category. 2. Tian-Shan. Kyrgyz range. 3. peak Semenova-Tyan-Shanskogo, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall, 4. Cat. dif. 5B. 5. Height difference 1000 m, length 1500 m, wall section height difference 650 m, length 830 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif.: 570 m, average steepness of the wall section is 60°: 6. Pitons hammered: | rock | chockstones | ice screws |

Route Description by Sections

Sec. 0–I. The beginning of the route — approaching the wall via an icy slope. Simultaneous movement, insurance through ice screws. Sec. I–6. Rocky bastion, a series of internal corners and walls with steepness up to 70–80°. Very complex rocks, limited number of holds and cracks. Use of thin pitons and small stoppers. Passage in artificial terrain (ИТО). Preliminary processing of this section is recommended. Alternating movement. A control cairn is left on the rocky ledge to the left of a pronounced grotto. Sec. 6–12. A series of walls and shelves leading to the key point of the route. Initially, a smooth rocky wall with a limited selection of cracks and small holds. Passage in ИТО. Further, via "sheep's foreheads" (бараньи лбы), approach under a vertical plate with a narrow crack. In the upper part:

• the crack turns into an overhanging chimney with a plug.
• Free climbing is practically impossible due to the lack of holds (only undercuts).
• For insurance — a single wedge-shaped crevice with an overhang, where only "Friends" (Френды) hold.
• Passage in ИТО. A cairn is left at the end of the section.