□

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent region — North Tien Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ala-Archa gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Kyrgyzstan Peak (4840 m), via the central counterfort of the north wall.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1290 m average steepness — 80°, length of difficult section 5–6 hours, tr — 1040 m
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 215 ice — 69, bolt — none, of which for creating belay anchor points — 48
7. Number of climbing hours — 47

N1 and N2 are route points passed by the group

It seems there's no text to translate. Please provide the text you'd like me to translate from Russian to English.

Report

On the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face (claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category). And on the traverse of peak "Kirgizstan" with ascent via the North face (claimed for the Central Council Championship of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society). Alma-Ata, 1963 www.alpfederation.ru

I. Introduction

The combined team of the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society on July 5-8, 1963, completed the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face, claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category, and on July 1-3, they completed a traverse of the peak with ascent via the North face. Peak "Kirgizstan" is located in the upper reaches of the Salyk glacier in the Alamedin gorge, in the central part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range (see the Kyrgyz Ala-Too map) in the area of the Alamedin walls, very popular among climbers of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. The absolute height of the peak is 4840 m. It is the highest point of the latitudinal part of the Alamedin spur.

Report

On the ascent of peak "Kyrgyzstan" via the North face (claimed to be the first Soviet ascent of technically complex class). And on the traverse of peak "Kyrgyzstan" with ascent via the North face (claimed to be the first ascent by the Central Council of the Spartak DSO). Alma-Ata, 1963

I. Introduction

The combined team of the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak DSO:

• July 5–8, 1963, ascended peak "Kyrgyzstan" via the North face, claimed to be the first Soviet ascent of technically complex class.
• July 1–3, traversed the peak with ascent via the North face.

I. Climbing category­­ — first ascent 2. Climbing area­­ — Kyrgyzsky ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak "Klov" (tentative name) 3920 m via N ridge, route type­­ — rock 4. Proposed category of difficulty­­ — 3A 5. Route description: height difference­­ — 2 km, length of sections 3­­–4 km, cat. diff.­­ — 240 m, average steepness­­ — 45° 6. Pitons driven: - rock­­ — 14 - chocks­­ — 11/2 - ice­­ — 0 7. Total climbing hours­­ — 8 h

45–50 m; 30″; θ×
45–50 m; 30″;
45–50 m; 30″;