I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. 4. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 7. Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 8. Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing). 9. Leader: PLOTNIKOV Ivan Aleksandrovich MSMK Participants: PLOTNIKOV Valery Grigoryevich CMS, SERGEEV Viktor Platonovich CMS 10. Coach: Plotnikov I.A. — MSMK II. Departure to the route: February 19, 1995 (processing) Summit: February 20, 1995. Return: February 20, 1995. 12. Organization: Altai Regional Sports Committee.
ROUTE SCHEME IN SYMBOLS, 1:5000
Route description by sections
Section R0–R1.
- Start of the route is to the right of a pronounced rocky island.
- Bergschrund wall is 3–5 m.
- Then along the ice slope along the rocks to the right of K. Kalyugin's route on the N wall 3 cat. complexity.
- Insurance through ice screws, movement on a double rope, use of ice axe and ice fifi.
Section R1–R3. Ice step up to 60°, then under the rocks of the left side ascent is 18–20 m. Insurance through ice screws, organization of peril , carrying rope to the first. In these areas, preliminary processing of 6 ropes.
Section R3–R8. Ice slope up to 55° along the rocky side. Entrance to the shoulder of the western counterfort. Before exiting to the shoulder, ice steepness is up to 60°. Movement with the organization of peril and carrying rope to the first. Insurance through ice screws, use of ice fifi and ice axe. Control tur in the area of section #4.
Section R8–R10. Movement along rocks 3, exit to the cushion of Korona Glacier and then along the route 3A cat. complexity to the summit Korona (1st). Movement is alternate and simultaneous, insurance through ice screws, rock pitons and chocks. On the shoulder of the western counterfort — control tur.
Section R10–R12. Along the ice slope with a steepness of 40–45° exit to the saddle between the 1st and 2nd towers. From the saddle 1.5 ropes to the summit. Alternate movement, insurance through ice screws, rock pitons and chocks.
Descent from the summit along the ice gully to Korona Glacier. Throughout the entire route, the team wore crampons.
Recommendations: This route is safest when climbing in winter, as to the right of it are the destroyed rocks of the western counterfort. Therefore, rockfall is possible in summer. The rocky bastion to the left of the route is safer, it consists of monolithic granite blocks.
- Stations for insurance are best organized under the cover of this bastion.
To complete the route, thorough preparation of ice equipment is necessary, special sharpening of ice screws, ice fifi and percussion tools. The ice on the route is hard, "bottle-like".