- Ascent via the couloir and the southeastern ridge.
- Ascent via the northwestern ridge.
- Ascent via the northern wall.
Ascent to the summit of Karaulchitaus via the couloir and the southeastern ridge, category 1B difficulty route (fig. 32).
The Karaulchitaus summit is located in a lateral spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau range, branching off from the Aktau summit to the northwest and bearing the same name.
The Karaulchitaus summit is the extreme northwestern point of this spur.
The path to the summit from the "Talgar" mountaineering camp goes along the trail through the gorge. Rounding the foot of Karaulchitaus from the west, move to the tongue of the Shokalsky glacier, then turn left and ascend the moraines of the Salanov glacier. After 4-5 hours of walking from the camp, a horizontal sandy area, convenient for a bivouac, is reached.
The ascent to the summit from the bivouac on the Sandy area begins along the talus, then goes through the couloir leading to the saddle between the Karaulchitaus and Chekist summits. The ascent through the couloir, depending on the time of season, is either on ice covered with snow or on talus, sometimes icy, sometimes snow-covered. Steepness is 30-35°.
From the saddle, turn left and move along the ridge with drops of no more than 30° steepness. After 30-40 minutes of movement along the ridge, the summit is reached. Descent is via the ascent route. The total ascent time from the overnight stay on the Sandy area is 5-6 hours.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants - no more than 25-30 people.
- Initial bivouac sites are on the Green Glade or Sandy area.
- Departure from the initial bivouac on the Green Glade - no later than 5:00, on the Sandy area - no later than 6:00.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main ropes;