Overview

Peak Amangeldy, 1B, V. Zimin, 1937

This is probably the most frequently visited route in Tuyuk-Su. From Alpinigrad move up the slope located on the left, in the direction of the big gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left, follow the trail upwards, then traverse the talus slope, and then enter the steep couloir. In winter, it may be necessary to put on equipment already there - there may be hard sastrugi in the couloir. In summer, it's talus with rock outcrops. Climb up to the next couloir, move up it until it ends. The start of the route is on a ledge under a steep wall. R0­–R1

• Move right, exit onto a ledge
• From this ledge, climb up an inside corner (15 m II) to the next ledge
• Belay station on a protrusion

North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Amangeldy via SW ridge

Category 2A difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Type of ascent: technical
2. Climbing area: North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Peak Amangeldy (3999 m), SW ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2A
5. Height difference: total route length — 300 m, including:

Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpinrad and continue along the trail towards the Mametova Glacier. Between the peaks of Pioneer and Amangeldy, located to the left of the lake, lies the Pioneer Pass. Do not ascend to the pass itself. The ascent to the start of the route should begin earlier, before reaching the pass; turn left under the wall of Peak Amangeldy. The approach to the wall goes along a wide talus slope between rocky outcrops. After passing between the rocky outcrops, proceed along the wall in the direction of the pass. Continue until the view opens up to the Bogdanovich Glacier. Here, a talus ridge adjoins the rocky wall of the peak, extending from the pass. The route begins from this point. It is advisable to start the route not via the chimney clogged with stones in its upper part, but rather about ten meters to the left, via a deep crevice, section R1–R2. The crevice leads to a narrow horizontal ledge; traverse it to a couloir with stones (caution: stones!), cross the couloir in its lower part, and exit to a small platform. From it, ascend freely to a 10-meter wall to the next small platform. From here, exit to the ridge via an inclined crevice (R3–R4). Movement along it is hindered by ice and wet rocks. Before exiting the chimney, transfer to its right wall, ascend to a platform (camouflaged belay) R4. From the platform, ascend 70–80 meters along severely damaged rocks (R4–R5–R6), then along a sharp ridge to the foot of the summit tower. Bypass it from the south along moderately difficult rocks and exit to the summit tower (from here, the cirques of the Bogdanovich and Tuyk-Su glaciers are clearly visible). Descend in a southwest direction via route 1B. The route was first traversed by a group of instructors from the mountain training school in 1943 under the leadership of V. Nearonsky.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac: Alpenrad.

Route Description

From the Tuyuksu alpine camp, move towards the Mynzhilki weather station. After crossing the dam, turn east along the steep slope of the moraine and ascend to the bivouac of Alpingrad. From the main bivouac on the Alpengrad site, head towards the foot of the large couloir on the western side of the peak. The beginning of the approach to the route coincides with the route to Amangeldy from the West, category 1B. When entering the narrow couloir on the 1B route, it is necessary to traverse sharply to the left and exit onto the wide talus slope leading to the base of the northwest edge of the summit tower. The approach to the base of the summit tower abuts a steep wall 10-12 m high, which is passed by free climbing. The wall leads to the C-3 ridge, then:

• Turn right
• Pass along the rocky ridge with minor difficulty
• Reach the summit Descent is via the Southwest ridge, following the 1B route category. The ascent from the Tuyuksu alpine camp takes around 7-8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: not limited.

Ascent Log.

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau, Tian Shan.
3. Ascent route — Peak Amangeldy, 4100 m from the north.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A.
5. Ascent characteristics:
   1. Elevation gain — 500 m.
   2. Average steepness — 54°.
   3. Length of complex section — 155 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 25 pcs.

Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpingrad. The traverse begins with peak Amangeldy 1B from the West (see description of Amangeldy 1B from the West). After the summit, descend in the eastern direction towards Pionerisky Pass via the 2B category route. From Pionerisky Pass, ascend to peak Pioner via the 1B category route. Then move south towards the summit of Uchitel (see description of the traverse Uchitel - Pioner 3A). From the summit of Uchitel, descend east via the 2A category route to peak Uchitel until the Heroes of Panfilov Pass. Ascend to peak Heroes of Panfilov via the 2B category route along the western ridge (see description). Descend towards Mametova Pass. From Mametova Pass, follow the route to Manshuk Mametova via the northern ridge 3B category until the summit (see description). Descend via the 2A category route from the M. Mametova glacier. Then descend to Alpengrad. Completed by a group led by T. Lebedev in 1999.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 6-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Alpengrad.

Antikainen (4000 m)

Ascent via the southern ridge — Cat. 1B

The summit of Antikainen is located on the main ridge of the Malo-Almatinsky spur between the summits of Otechestvennoy Voyny and Manshuk Mametova. From the Mynzhilki weather station, cross the Malaya Almatinka river and, bypassing the ancient moraines of the Manshuk Mametova glacier, then the western ridge of Antikainen, move along its foot, gradually gaining altitude. Ascend via the lateral moraine of the Mayakovsky glacier to the last couloir on the southern slope of the western ridge. Ascend the couloir to its fork and continue along the right branch. Further ascent is via heavily broken rocks and scree, keeping to the left side of the couloir (be cautious!). Upon reaching the black scree at the junction of the western lateral ridge and the main ridge, traverse it and reach the main ridge. The summit of Antikainen rises 6–7 m above the ridge in the form of a pointed tower, with a cairn on it. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours. The first ascent to the summit was made on July 7, 1940, by a group of Almaty climbers led by I. Mezdrikov.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac is in the area of the Mynzhilki weather station.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5–6 a.m.

Route Description

The most convenient approach to the start of the route is via the Mametova Pass with a descent to the Byrdjiga Glacier. Here, on the moraine, the initial bivouac is set up. The exit to the route is in the lower part of the Byrdjiga Glacier. A long couloir, from the base of which the sharp peaks of the Aristov Peak are visible. Along a wide couloir that narrows sharply at the upper part, approach the so-called "gates" R1. Then straight up the walls, 1015 m with good ledges for belay stations, ascend to the eastern ridge under the summit tower. The summit tower is 2 steep walls up to 80° with small inclined ledges at the top. Then exit to the summit. Descent from the summit tower along the eastern wall on a rope (twice 40 m):

• First descent to an intermediate platform
• Second descent to the base of the tower From here, descend along the couloir with scree to the Byrdjiga Glacier to the initial bivouac. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 4–6 people.

Description of Aristov's route cat. diff. from the west

The most convenient approach to the start of the route is through the Mametova pass with a descent to the Byrdjiga glacier. Here, on the moraine, the initial bivouac is set up. The exit to the route is in the direction of the Aristov pass - a pronounced lowering between the Karlytau peak and the beginning of the ridge of the Aristov peak. From the Aristov pass, a straightforward ridge with two gendarmes follows, which are bypassed on the right via not steep snow shelves. Then, one should approach the summit tower and exit to the saddle via a snow couloir. Descent from the summit tower along the eastern wall on a rope (twice at 40 m):

• First - descent to an intermediate platform
• Second - to the foot of the tower From here, a descent along the couloir with scree to the Byrdjiga glacier to the initial bivouac. The ascent takes 8-9 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 4-6 people.

Route Description

The approach to the start of the route is made via the Bogdanovich Glacier to the Komсомольский Pass. In the pass area, there is a starting bivouac. From it, the ascent begins along the northern ridge for 300 m towards the peak of Карлытау. At the very beginning, the ridge is gentle but icy; closer to the peak, the steepness increases to 35°. Here, one should descend to the ridge of the Aristov peak into a lowering referred to as the Aristov Pass. From the Aristov Pass, there is a straightforward ridge with two gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right via not very steep snowy ledges. Then, one should approach the summit pinnacle and exit to a saddle via a snowy couloir. The descent is made via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9–10 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: 4–6 people.
2. Starting bivouac: in the area of Komсомольский Pass.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4: