North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Amangeldy via SW ridge

Category 2A difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Type of ascent: technical
2. Climbing area: North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Peak Amangeldy (3999 m), SW ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2A
5. Height difference:

total route length — 300 m, including:

• category 5 difficulty — none
• category 6 difficulty — none, average steepness of the wall section, average steepness of the route

6. Number of pitons (denominator for IT):

quantity:

• rock pitons — 0
• ice screws — 0
• chocks — 0
• bolt pitons — 0

7. Number of walking hours/days: no information
8. Overnight stays: no
9. Leader — Gorbunov Yuri Nikolaevich, Master of Sports.

Participants — none

10. Coach (Full name, sports rank).
11. Approach to the route: no information

Summit: no information. Descent: no information

UIAA Symbol Scheme

Peak Amangeldy SW via ridge, 2A, Yu. Gorbunov.

Description.

R0–R1. Start at the base of a large couloir leading to the beginning of the category 1B route. Wall section is 20 m long. In winter, it can be covered with ice.

R1–R2 Move up the couloir to its upper part. R2–R3 Start ascending the wall on the right. Move up and left along an easy terrain. This section leads to the top of a jandarm.

R3–R4 Descend to a saddle via a 10 m rappel. R4–R5 Move along the ridge, on its right side, to the wall. R6–R7 Ascend the wall to a ledge. This section joins the 2A route. R7–R8 Move along the ridge to the summit in teams.

The route is safe and logical and is highly recommended as a first category 2A ascent.