Overview

Peak Amangeldy, 1B, V. Zimin, 1937

This is probably the most frequently visited route in Tuyuk-Su. From Alpinigrad move up the slope located on the left, in the direction of the big gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left, follow the trail upwards, then traverse the talus slope, and then enter the steep couloir. In winter, it may be necessary to put on equipment already there - there may be hard sastrugi in the couloir. In summer, it's talus with rock outcrops. Climb up

to the next couloir, move up it until it ends. The start of the route is on a ledge under a steep wall.

R0­–R1

• Move right, exit onto a ledge
• From this ledge, climb up an inside corner (15 m II) to the next ledge
• Belay station on a protrusion
• Traditionally, for novice groups, handrails are hung from the ledge to the ledge above the corner

R1­–R2

• Move right
• Traverse the wall and exit onto the ridge

R2­–R3

• Follow the ridge with running belay to the summit (100 m I)

Descent via the ascent route.