Khmelnitskogo Peak (4150 m)

Traversing from Southwest to Northeast — Category 2A difficulty

The summit of Khmelnitskogo Peak is located in the middle part of the ridge that divides the valleys of Sredniy and Leviy Aksay. This ridge stretches 8 km northward from the main watershed ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau. The ridge has multi-meter walls on its western and eastern sides and a steep slope to the north. The approach begins from the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Leviy Aksay glacier. One needs to cross a stream, an ancient lateral moraine, and reach the western slope of the peak. The first stage of the route involves ascending through scree, followed by a section of severely fragmented rocks. Further on lies a couloir with a slope of up to 45°. After traversing this, one reaches broken rocks. The next section consists of slabs with a steepness of up to 65°, which are ascended directly with piton belays (2–3 pitons). The rock wall, 8–10 m high, behind the slabs is bypassed on the left. This is followed by a section of easy rocks, and then a second rock wall is encountered, which is bypassed on the right. Subsequently, there's a steep snowy couloir (up to 50°), which is filled with snow and potentially avalanche-prone early in the season, thus requiring extreme caution. The first ascenders traversed it by sticking to the left side. Beyond this section, one reaches the ridge, which extends northward for 350–400 m and features several minor elevations. Initially, there's a descent to a connecting ridge with cornices hanging towards the east. Then, a small gendarme is bypassed on the left. From the connecting ridge, an ascent is made along the sharp ridge to a rock platform. The descent leads to the base of the second and third gendarmes, which are bypassed on the left via a snowy slope. Further on, one reaches the elevated part of the ridge, from which the entire path to the main summit is visible.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class

• rock

2. Ascent Area

• Trans-Ili Alatau

3. Summit

• B. Khmelnitskogo, 4150 m; Eastern Ridge.

4. Estimated Difficulty Category

• 1B

5. Route Characteristics:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class 2. Ascent area 3. Summit 4. Estimated difficulty category 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain
• length of sections with 1st difficulty category
• length of sections with 2nd difficulty category
• route type

Fizkulturnik - Chkalova, traverse, category 2B

Route description

From the initial bivouac in the Talgar Pass area, move along the Bogdanovich Glacier towards the saddle between Peak Komsomola and Fizkulturnik peak. From there, ascend to the ridge of Fizkulturnik peak, approach its base, and ascend to the southeastern summit. After descending, move along a relatively easy ridge towards the western summit of the Fizkulturnik massif. After ascending and descending from it, cross the cirque and ascend to the northeastern summit of Fizkulturnik. Then, the ridge, gradually rising, leads to the main summit. From it, descend to a sub-summit and continue descending to the left. The first gendarme after the main summit can be overcome directly or bypassed from the southern side (cautiously!). When ascending to the saddle between the first and second gendarmes, the section is hazardous (rockfall), and the rocks are heavily destroyed. The second gendarme is taken directly with thorough belaying. When descending from it, belaying is necessary; it is also possible to bypass it from the right - only if there is a deep snow cover closing the crevices. The following sections of the route:

• A gentle snow plateau in the upper reaches of the Til Glacier;
• Ascend between groups of rocks along snow-covered slabs;
• Move to the saddle between Fizkulturnik and Chkalova peaks;

Fizkulturnik 2A cat. sl. from Aiyak glacier

Description of the route.

The initial bivouac is in the area of Talgar Pass, through which the approach to the route is made. From here, the path to the summit is clearly visible. Crossing the terminal moraines of the Bogdanovich Glacier, approach the foot of the ridge. The Til Glacier can serve as a landmark. Ascend the smoothed rocky outcrops and "bighorn sheep's foreheads". Continue ascending along the talus and moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the Til Glacier. After 300 m, cross over to the glacier (insurance via ice axe, step cutting). Overcoming the glacier on crampons (there are crevices), approach the gendarme, which is overcome head-on. Behind the gendarme, ascend a small crumbly wall to the forepeak, which is taken head-on or bypassed on the right.

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

From the city of Almaty, drive along the highway to the "Leninets" pioneer camp. Then, proceed along the right (orographically) side of the gorge until the confluence of three rivers:

• Levyy Aksay
• Sredniy Aksay
• Pravyy Aksay It takes 4 hours from the pioneer camp. The further path lies along the valley of the Sredniy Aksay River, on the right (orographically) side, leading to a large rock fragment (big stone) lying in the river floodplain — 2 hours from the confluence of the rivers. Here is the initial bivouac. Above the parking area near the Big Stone, cross the Aksay River and begin ascending along the grassy slope in the direction of the scree. Upon reaching the level of the scree, ascend along the right edge of the scree, along the grassy slope, partially along the rocky outcrops of the slope, and ascend to the green shoulder, from which the route begins on the left.

Description of the Route of the Eastern Ridge to Peak Bogdan Khmelnitsky

R1. Ascend from the river along the grassy slope to the green shoulder.

Ushbas - Abay Kunanbaev, 45. Traverse of 3 peaks. M. Bryksin, 1958 October 18-22 Group's route

I. Orography

The North-West ridge departs from the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the area of Iiyintau. Three peaks rise above the strongly torn ridge crest:

• 1st Nameless "Treзубец" 4150 m above sea level
• 2nd Nameless "False peak" 4250 m above sea level
• Abay Kunanbaev 4440 m above sea level

Route Description

The starting point of the route is described in the ascent description to the summit of Uchitel 2A cat. sl. from the East. Further path follows the ridge connecting both summits. The first and second gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The remaining ones are overcome head-on. Then a неслож­ный спуск (easy descent) into the pass, movement along the ridge to the very summit of Pioner. The descent from the summit is to the left along the ridge to the Pioner­sky pass (3870 m), from it to the moraine of the Mametova glacier and along the trail to return to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at the Alpin­grad site.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope — 2×40 m
• expendable repschnur — 5–6 m

Peak Uchitel'

Via South-Western

Counterforce, 4B,

V. Shapovalov, 1978

Pass by the Southern wall of Pioner and immediately after it, turn left into the couloir. You need to be careful in the couloir - rocks may fall depending on the season. It's better to put on helmets even below Pioner. Ascend to the clearly visible counterforce, reach its lower part via a snowpatch lying to the left. R0–R1: From the ledge, along the outer edge, 35-40 meters to the next ledge. R1–R2: From the ledge, upwards to the right across the slabs. A small wall, about two meters (90°), then it flattens out again. R3–R4: Either onto the wall to the right or into the couloir to the left. Either way, it "squeezes" out onto the ridge. R4–R5: The ridge abuts a wall about three meters high. The wall is not difficult, and there are ledges behind it.

I. Climbing category — rock. 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloalmatinskoye gorge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Uчитель (Teacher), 4030 m, Southwest counterfort. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B. 5. Route characteristics — rock route, height difference 400 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 115 m, average steepness — 70°. 6. Number of pitons: rock — 32 (including 4 for creating intermediate belay anchors); ice — not used; bolt pitons — not used; clamps — 2 pieces. 7. Number of climbing hours — 13 (including 3 hours spent on route preparation). 8. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification.

1. Shapovalov Valery Nikolayevich — 1st sports category (leader)
2. Merkeev Sultan Nurtayevich — 2nd sports category (participant)