I. Climbing category — rock.

2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloalmatinskoye gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Uчитель (Teacher), 4030 m, Southwest counterfort.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics — rock route, height difference 400 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 115 m, average steepness — 70°.
6. Number of pitons: rock — 32 (including 4 for creating intermediate belay anchors); ice — not used; bolt pitons — not used; clamps — 2 pieces.
7. Number of climbing hours — 13 (including 3 hours spent on route preparation).
8. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification.
   1. Shapovalov Valery Nikolayevich — 1st sports category (leader)
   2. Merkeev Sultan Nurtayevich — 2nd sports category (participant)
   3. Mozgovoy Alexander Grigorievich — 2nd sports category (participant)
   4. Prjanikov Sergey Germanovich — 1st sports category (participant)
9. Team coach: Ilyinsky Ervand Tikhonovich.
10. Date of departure and return: May 1, 1978.

Goals and objectives of the ascent

The team had the following tasks:

1. To complete a new route of 4th category of difficulty in the Malo-Almatinskoye gorge area.
2. To improve the sportsmanship of team members.
3. The main goal — participation in the Kazakh SSR championship and preparation for the USSR Armed Forces Championship in mountaineering.

Brief geographical overview and mountaineering characteristics of the area

The peak "Uчитель" (Teacher) is located in the northern part of the Maloalmatinskoye spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau between the peaks "28 героев – панфиловцев" (28 Heroes - Panfilovites) — to the southeast and peak "Пионер" (Pioneer) — to the northwest. The Maloalmatinskoye gorge has many peaks of 2nd, 3rd, and 4th categories of difficulty with heights from 4000 to 4376 m, which are frequently visited by climbers. The peaks of the area are composed of granites and basalts. The snow line is at an altitude of about 4000 m. A significant number of peaks are located in the cirques of glaciers:

• Central Tuyuk-Su
• Mayakovsky
• Manshuk Mametova

The peak "Uчитель" (Teacher) is located in the cirque of the M. Mametova glacier. Weather conditions are characterized by instability. Good roads, proximity to most peaks, and diverse routes make the Maloalmatinskoye gorge area popular among climbers from Kazakhstan and other republics.

Route selection

Considering the relative remoteness of many peaks with routes of 4th category of difficulty in the Maloalmatinskoye spur, we looked for a climbing object of 4th category of difficulty that would be located close to roads, be logical, unambiguous, and meet safety requirements.

We chose the previously unclimbed Southwest counterfort of peak "Uчитель" (Teacher) (4030 m). Our desire to climb this route was fueled by the fact that two groups of sufficiently qualified climbers (including candidates for Master of Sports and 1st sports category), who attempted this route in the winter of 1978, failed and were forced to turn back. Although the weather conditions were unfavorable for them. The route is logical and unambiguous. It is impossible to bypass it via an easier path. The walls branching off from the counterfort to the right and left are very steep (70–90°) and in many places resemble "tiles".

Preparation and tactics of the ascent

Since some team members lacked climbing experience at the time of the ascent, and the previous training consisted of general physical preparation and rock climbing, it was decided to conduct a training ascent on peak "Амангельды" (Amangeldy) of 2B category of difficulty, which was done on April 30, 1978. A pair was to prepare the beginning of the route. Considering the failure of the predecessors, special equipment was taken:

• ladders;
• clamps;
• jumar.

The lead climber wore galoshes. A sufficient supply of high-calorie food was taken. It was decided to climb in two teams: 1) Shapovalov – Merkeev, 2) Prjanikov – Mozgovoy.

Brief description of the approach to the route

The path to the route from the Tuyuk-Su camp (2500 m) goes up the right bank of the Malaya Almatinka river to the ancient moraine of the M. Mametova glacier — 2–2.5 hours. Then ascent to "Alpinrad" (a place for climbers to spend the night) — 40 minutes. From "Alpinrad" to the base camp on the right lateral moraine of the M. Mametova glacier — 1 hour walk. From the assault camp to the start of the route — 40 minutes walk along the moraine and talus slope with a steepness of 20–30°. At the start of the route, a control cairn is built (see attached diagram).

Table of main route characteristics

Brief explanation of the table

April 30, 1978, the preparation of R1 and R2–R10 sections was carried out by the team Merkeev–Shapovalov.

Photo 4. Section R1. Wall 50 m, average steepness 75°. In the middle of the wall, there is a vertical crack. 5 pitons were hammered during the passage of this section. Under the wall R1 — 1st control cairn.

Section R2. Initially, a small, 4 m ascent on a slab and traverse to the right 6 m. The slab is monolithic, with a small number of cracks, making it difficult to organize reliable belays. Then exit under a corniche. Two ladders were used to pass the corniche. After the corniche — traverse to the left 10 m. 7 pitons were used to pass the R2 section. Average steepness 60–65°. This is the 1st key section.

May 1, 1978. Section R3. Wall 20 m with an average steepness of 75°, with a small number of holds and thin shallow cracks (petal-shaped pitons were used). Then exit onto a slab with a steepness of 65°, length 30 m. 6 pitons were used.

Section R4. Steep wall 15 m, leading to a monolithic 15 m slab, which leads to a snow shelf. Average steepness of the section 75°. 5 pitons were hammered. On the shelf — 2nd control cairn. Photo 3.

Section R5. Wall 20 m with a steepness of 80°. In the upper part of the wall — a crack with a small overhanging corniche, which was passed using intermediate belay anchors. Then exit via rocks 65°, 25 m, onto a snow shelf. This is the 2nd key section.

Section R6. Traverse to the left along the snow shelf, bypassing a gendarme. Exit into a snow couloir with a length of 80 m and a steepness of 50°. The couloir leads to a ridge.

Section R7

Ridge 40 m, steep, destroyed. The ridge leads under a steep monolithic wall. Belays through ledges.

Section R8

Chimney 10 m with a steepness of 65°, then traverse to the right along a narrow ledge 15 m. Exit onto a gentle slab. Rocks on this section are monolithic.

Section R9

Wall 40 m with a steepness of 75°. On the wall, there is a vertical narrow crack along which movement is carried out. Pitons and ledges are used for belays.

Section R10

After the wall, exit onto a steep ridge with a length of 60 m, leading under a pre-summit rock gendarme, which is bypassed along a shelf to the right. Exit onto a pre-summit ridge with a length of 80 m. Belays through ledges.

Conclusions and recommendations

1. The route is logical and objectively safe.
2. Compared to similar routes in the area of 4B category of difficulty (peak "Комсомол" (Komsomol) via the Southwest wall, peak Mayakovsky via the West wall and North part of the East wall), this route is similar in structure and difficulty. In terms of the frequency of using intermediate belay anchors, it is most similar to the route on peak Mayakovsky via the West wall 4B category of difficulty (route of Petrashko G.). We believe that the route deserves a classification of 4B category of difficulty.
3. We recommend taking petal-shaped pitons and clamps on the route, among other equipment.
4. We recommend that all participants wear galoshes during the ascent in warm weather.