Akkum (4098 m)
Traverse from the northeast to the southwest — category 2A (fig. 1)
The Akkum peak, located in the cirque of the Levyy Kasckelen glacier, is a dome-shaped elevation with groups of rocks in a large snowy ridge that approaches it from the northeast. The northern slopes of the ridge are the main area of glacier nourishment.
Fig. 1. The ascent to the summit begins along a branch from the main ridge, as if cutting into the Levyy Kasckelei glacier. From the glacier, ascend the snowy slope of medium steepness along the branch to its junction with the main ridge. The junction is crowned with a small dome covered with small scree.
From the dome, continue moving along the snowy-ice ridge leading to the summit. Along the entire length of the ridge, huge snow cornices hang over the southern side. Therefore, it is necessary to move along it with careful insurance and a constant deviation to the right side.
In some places, on steep sections, there are ice outcrops, requiring the cutting of steps. Two gendarmes are encountered. The first one is bypassed from the north along a steep icy slope, which is covered with snow at the beginning of the season. If there is ice, insurance is provided through ice screws. The slope leads to rocks, where the bypass is made.
After the gendarme, it is advisable to make a traverse of the slope to a small saddle, behind which the second gendarme rises, easily bypassed from the south. Further:
- several steep ascents, where cutting steps is required again.
Before the summit, it is necessary to take a left turn, exit onto a narrow snowy ridge, and along it — to the summit.
The summit is a narrow ridge composed of large rock fragments. Descent to the southwest, initially along the ridge, then along a steep slope (45–60°), leading to a snowy saddle, from which a descent to the glacier is possible.
The descent point must be chosen carefully. At the beginning of summer, the slope is avalanche-prone. The first section of the descent is steep — up to 60–65°, its length is 30 m, followed by a section of 300–350 m with a steepness of 40–45°. At the end of the season, the lower part of the slope has ice outcrops. The ascent takes 7–8 hours.
The summit was conquered in 1938 by a group of climbers from the Moscow House of Scientists led by Professor Nemytsky. The traverse and first ascent along this route were made in August 1954 by climbers from the "Kok Bastau" camp:
- V. Anisimova,
- M. Tagabergenov,
- S. Kuderin,
- M. Chalenko
under the leadership of V. Stepanova.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants: 8–10 people.
- Initial bivouac at the tongue of the Levyy Kaskelen glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) ice screws — 3; c) carabiners — 3; d) hammers — 2.
