Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class. Technical 2. Ascent area, ridge. Tian Shan, Terskey Alatau 3. Summit, its height, route. Peak Tashtanbek 4710 m, via the northwest wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category. 6B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1070 m, length of sections Rн — R1 cat. sl. 1040 m, average steepness 76° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial holds. rock — 157, 30

Climbing Passport

1. CLIMBING TYPE: technical.
2. CLIMBING AREA: Terskey-Alatau in the upper reaches of the Turgen-Aksu river.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, CLIMBING ROUTE: Tashtambektor, 4710 m, via the NW buttress of the 103 ridge.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 1090 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 610 m, average steepness of the route 60° (excluding the horizontal ridge section).
6. Number of pitons used: | | for belay | for artificial footholds | for organized bivouacs | | :------------: | :---------: | :----------------------: | :---------------------: | | rock | - | 74 | 12 |

AREA — Tashtambektor gorge, Terskey-Alatau ridge. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ROUTE — Tashtambektor-bashi peak, 4710 m, via the right counter-ridge of the NE wall. ESTIMATED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — approximately 5B category of difficulty. CHARACTERISTICS — height difference — 1400 m, average steepness — 55° (counter-ridge). PROTECTION PITONS DRIVEN IN: rock — 103, ice — 46, belay pitons on ascent — 1 screw, rock — 14, ice — 8. Total of 172 pitons driven in. DEPARTURE AND RETURN DATES: Departure from base camp — August 20, 1977. Return to base camp — August 28, 1977. Number of man-hours: 66 hours, of which 52 hours were spent on the ascent to the summit. NUMBER OF NIGHTS SPENT, THEIR CHARACTERISTICS: 7 nights, of which 2 were spent sitting. The remaining nights were comfortable (after constructing them over 1–2 hours).

Report №104

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Tashtambektor-bashi (4710 m) via the right buttress of the North-East wall. Team composition:

• Team leader: IVANCHIN I.A. — Candidate Master of Sports
• Participants: RYABOV N.A. — 1st sports category, MAKHNOVICH L.A. — Candidate Master of Sports, STRIKICA N.I. — Candidate Master of Sports
• Coach: PENCHUK V.L. — Master of Sports of the USSR — 1977 —

Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the Tashtambektor gorge area

The object of the gathering of the Moscow Regional Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society in 1977 was the Terskey-Alatau ridge (Eastern Tien Shan). The Terskey-Alatau ridge is latitudinal and located south of Lake Issyk-Kul, within the territory of the Kirghiz SSR.

Route Description

for ascending Peak Tamma via the Southwest Ridge, Terskey Range, route category 2B, under the guidance of Salazko M.N., August 23, 1976. After leaving the Ala-Too alpine camp, cross the Oyuntyor River and follow the trail on its orographic left side upstream for 1.5 hours. Then, cross to the other bank via a large scree slope that blocks the river, and continue upstream along the trail for 20 minutes until you reach a visible stream flowing down the slope, which occasionally forms a waterfall. Leaving the waterfall on the left, ascend along the boundary between the grass and scree (there is a cairn along the way). After 1 hour of ascent, move along the grassy ledges into the couloir between two ridges that later form the Southwest Ridge of Peak Tamma. When ascending the couloir, be cautious on the rocky outcrops (smooth slabs with loose rocks). After 1.5 hours of movement from the river, approach a clearly visible 40-meter internal angle (1st control cairn). R1: traverse the internal angle with occasional protection, then use rock projections for protection to climb a 5-meter wall with a deep cleft (2nd control cairn). R2: continue along the ridge simultaneously, occasionally using variable protection through rock projections and piton protection. The ridge is sharp with characteristic feather-like gendarmes, deep fractures, and slabs. Movement along the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours. R3: the ridge then transitions into a rocky slope. Moving simultaneously along this slope, reach the pre-summit ridge and the summit in 30–40 minutes. Be cautious on the rocky slope due to numerous loose rocks. Descend from the summit along the rocky slope, leaving the ridge on the left. The descent leads into the cirque formed by two ridges at the summit. During the descent, orient yourself towards the couloir with a stream. The descent into the cirque takes 1.5 hours. There are cairns along the descent route.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Summit — Slonënok peak, height — 4726 m, ascent route — Northwest counterfort.
4. Proposed complexity category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1160 m, average steepness — 72°, section lengths:
   • 2nd difficulty category — 260 m.
   • 3rd difficulty category — 17 m.
   • 4th difficulty category — 111 m.

Ascent Passport

on Mt. Slonionok via the NW buttress (first ascent)

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent area
3. Peak, its height, route
4. Estimated difficulty category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade, average steepness
6. Number of pitons driven for belaying, for creating belay stations
7. Number of climbing hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification — technical, route — combined.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Slonenok, 4720 m, route through the center of the north-west wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 260 m, average steepness — 55°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock: for belay — 57 for creating TAE — 1

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan range, Teskey Ala-Too.
3. Slonenok peak, 4718 m, traverse from East to West, 45 km traverse.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 4B (3 with passage).
5. Route characteristics: length of sections with 4–5 category of difficulty — 680 m, average steepness of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons hammered for belay — 61, of which:
   • rock pitons — 28,
   • protection gear — 7,
   • ice screws — 26.

ASCENT RECORD

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan.
3. Peak — Orto-Choku Eastern, height — 4000 m, ascent route — from the southeast.
4. Difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons driven — 7 pcs.
7. Total climbing hours — 11.
8. Group composition: