Route Description

for ascending Peak Tamma via the Southwest Ridge, Terskey Range, route category 2B, under the guidance of Salazko M.N., August 23, 1976.

After leaving the Ala-Too alpine camp, cross the Oyuntyor River and follow the trail on its orographic left side upstream for 1.5 hours. Then, cross to the other bank via a large scree slope that blocks the river, and continue upstream along the trail for 20 minutes until you reach a visible stream flowing down the slope, which occasionally forms a waterfall.

Leaving the waterfall on the left, ascend along the boundary between the grass and scree (there is a cairn along the way). After 1 hour of ascent, move along the grassy ledges into the couloir between two ridges that later form the Southwest Ridge of Peak Tamma.

When ascending the couloir, be cautious on the rocky outcrops (smooth slabs with loose rocks).

After 1.5 hours of movement from the river, approach a clearly visible 40-meter internal angle (1st control cairn).

R1: traverse the internal angle with occasional protection, then use rock projections for protection to climb a 5-meter wall with a deep cleft (2nd control cairn).

R2: continue along the ridge simultaneously, occasionally using variable protection through rock projections and piton protection. The ridge is sharp with characteristic feather-like gendarmes, deep fractures, and slabs. Movement along the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours.

R3: the ridge then transitions into a rocky slope. Moving simultaneously along this slope, reach the pre-summit ridge and the summit in 30–40 minutes. Be cautious on the rocky slope due to numerous loose rocks.

Descend from the summit along the rocky slope, leaving the ridge on the left. The descent leads into the cirque formed by two ridges at the summit. During the descent, orient yourself towards the couloir with a stream. The descent into the cirque takes 1.5 hours. There are cairns along the descent route.

After descending into the cirque:

• cross the cirque above the waterfall source;
• traverse the grassy slope;
• reach the large scree slope along whose boundary the ascent was made.

Then:

• descend to the river (descent time from the cirque to the river is 30 minutes);
• return to the camp along the trail.

It is advisable to leave the camp for the ascent at 4:00 AM. For a group of 4, the necessary equipment includes:

• 2 ropes, 40 meters each;
• 2 rock hammers;
• 5 rock pitons;
• 5 carabiners.

In case of an emergency descent from the ridge, rappel down to the left into the cirque using a fixed rope and then continue with a sport descent. Snow cover complicates the route.

On the pre-summit ridge, there are visible traces of lightning strikes on the rocks.

Legend:

• A — Control cairn
• — — — Visible group route
• — — — — Invisible route
• P — Summit