ASCENT RECORD
- Ascent class — rock climbing.
- Ascent area — Central Tien Shan.
- Peak — Orto-Choku Eastern, height — 4000 m, ascent route — from the southeast.
- Difficulty category — 3A.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 40°.
- Pitons driven — 7 pcs.
- Total climbing hours — 11.
- Group composition: Leader: Kapralov S.A. — 2nd sports category, Participants: Moroz V.P. — Master of Sports, Moskvin B.V. — Candidate Master of Sports, Leonenkov A.V. — 1st sports category, Medvedev A.G. — 1st sports category, Savitsky V.M. — 1st sports category.
- Team coach: Moskvin B.V.
- Date of departure and return on the route: July 30, 1987.
- Organization: UTS Championship of SA and VMF in mountaineering.
Brief description of the route
From the base camp along the road and trail along the Aiu-Tor River to the meadow, 1.5 hours. Then from the meadow to the right along the trail, then along the grassy slope with a steepness of 25–30°. The grassy slope leads to a snowy couloir 35–45°, with ice in the upper part. Climbed alternately with belay through ice axes. The couloir leads to the pre-summit ridge between the 1st and 2nd gendarmes, where the control cairn is located. From the meadow to the ridge, 3.5 hours. The second gendarme is bypassed on the left along the route — piton belay and belay around ledges. From the 2nd gendarme to the summit, 4 rope lengths — rocks of the 3rd difficulty category with a steepness of up to 60°, climbed alternately with piton belay and belay around ledges where the terrain allows. The exit to the summit is along the snowy ridge. From the control cairn to the summit, 2.5 hours.
Descent along the ascent route — 3 hours to the base camp.
List of equipment for a group of 6 people
Main rope — 3 x 40 m. Carabiners — 10 pcs. Ice axes — 6 pcs. Rock hammers — 2 pcs. Rock pitons — 7 pcs. Chocks — 5 pcs. Extension loops — 3 pcs.
Group leader Kapralov S.A.
Route diagram
