Central Tian Shan

Description of the ascent route to Peak Mendeleevets (4200 m) via the north wall of the north ridge, difficulty category 5B.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — rock Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Ayu-Tor gorge Peak: Mendeleyevec Peak 4200 m Difficulty category: 5B Route characteristics a) Elevation gain — 900 m b) Length of R5–R6 sections — 578 m c) Average steepness — 67° Pitons driven: 79

Description of the first ascent of Mendeleevets peak (4200 m) in Tian-Shan via the western ridge, grade 4A, with a detailed route description and technical details.

Ascent Log Ascent classification — technical Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Ayuter gorge Peak, its height, and ascent route — Mt. Mendeleevets, 4200 m, 6B ridge Estimated difficulty category — 4A–3B Route characteristics: height difference — average slope 50°. Section lengths: R2 — 690 m, R3 — 350 m, R4 — 230 m, R5 — 65 m. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 25 ice — bolt —

Route description to the summit "Litovskih Alpinistov" (4080 m) via the Eastern wall, category 4 complexity, located in the Tian-Shan mountain range.

Route Description To the summit of "Lithuanian Climbers" from the east via the wall - Category 4A difficulty: A. Petrauskas (leader) A. Buiko R. Valepetaite R. Vosylute V. Valatka M. Navelukas Brief Description of the Summit

Description of the first ascent route to Peak Karbyshev (4700 m) via the center of the eastern wall, category 5B difficulty level, in Tian-Shan.

Ascent Certificate ASCENT CLASS: technical ASCENT AREA: Tian-Shan, Ontor gorge, Kara-Kol area PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the center of the Eastern wall. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: rocky ELEVATION DIFFERENCE: glacier–summit 900 m, wall section 250 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS: wall section 75–85°, entire route 40–50°. LENGTH OF 5–6 difficulty category sections: 280 m PITS DRIVEN:

Description of the ascent to Peak Karbyshev via the southern ridge, category 4B, made by a group led by Alexander Soldatov in 2003.

Ascent Log p. Karbysheva is located in the Terskey-Alatoo range to the north of p. Karakolsky, between p. Blyukhera and p. Dyuklo. The route's ordinal number is 69, section 7.10 of the classification table. Name — Pik Karbysheva. Route name — via the South Ridge. Proposed category of difficulty is 4B. Route type — combined. Height difference — 630 m. Length — 870 m. Length of sections with category 5 complexity — 105 m. Average steepness of the route — 47°. Steepness of the main part of the route — 53°. Number of pitons left on the route — 0 pcs. No ITO was used; no drill-in anchors were used.

Description of the traverse of the peaks Karbyshev, Blücher, and Tukhachevsky via a Category III difficulty route, successfully climbed by the Zenit team in 1976.

Ascent Passport Ascent category: Traverse Ascent region: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau Ascent route: Traverse of Peaks Karbyshev, Blyukher, and Tukhachevsky from north to south, ascending Peak Karbyshev via the southern edge. Ascent description: Ascent to Peak Karbyshev is category 5A difficulty. Traverse length is 2600 m. Height difference between peaks and cols is 400 m. Length of technically difficult sections is 850 m. Number of pitons: Rock - 142, ice - 15

Technical ascent description of Peak Karbyshev (4700 m) via the Eastern Ridge in the Central Tian Shan with a difficulty level of 3B.

Climbing category — technical. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan, ridge, Karakol gorge. Peak, its height, climbing route: Peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the eastern ridge. Estimated difficulty category — 3B. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m, average steepness — 40°. Number of pitons for belay: rock pitons — 6 pieces, ice screws were not used for creating intermediate belays. Number of climbing hours: from the upper base camp under the glacier to the upper campsite — 2 hours. from the upper campsite to the couloir — 30 minutes. ascent through the couloir — 40 minutes.

Report on the ascent of the "Sparakt" team to Peak Kerakolsky (5216 m) via the northwest ridge in the Terskey-Alatoo range.

69 Report on the ascent of Peak Karakolsky (5216 m) via the northwest ridge. Terskey-Alatau ridge. Team of the Kyrgyz RS DSO "Spartak" consisting of: Biryukov V.N. - leader Alibegasvhili L.M. - participant Onin A.A. - participant Bochkov D.S. - participant Musienko V.V. - participant

Description of a Category 5 complexity route via the North Face to Karakol Peak in the Terskey Ala-Too range, climbed in 1983 by a team of climbers led by Alexander Nekrasov.

PASSPORT Snow-ice class. Central Tien-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge. Peak Karakolsky via the Northern face through "Zmeika", variation. 5B category of difficulty. Elevation gain 1480 m, length 2050 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty is 1170 m. Average steepness of main sections is 60° (3800-4700). Number of pitons: rock pitons 34, drilled закладок 6, ice screws 153. Climbing hours - 32, days - 3.

Description of the ascent route to Peak Karakolsky (6281 m) via the North Face, difficulty category 5B, with a detailed analysis of sections and technical features.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude and technical Ascent area (№ according to KTMGV) — Terskey Ala-Too, № p/p. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Karakolsky, 5281 m, North face (along the "snake"). Proposed category of difficulty — 5B Route characteristics: height difference — 1631 m average steepness — 62° (wall) length of sections: R1 — 80 m