Muztau (4556 m)
Ascent from the Toguзак Glacier along the northern edge, route 2А category of complexity (fig. 6).
The Muztau peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the east of it, separated by a vast firn plateau, rises the peak Sovetsky Kazakhstan, and to the south-west, also behind a large firn plateau, is the peak 10 let Kazakhskoy SSR.
From the initial bivouac on the terminal moraine of the Toguзак Glacier - exit to its left branch. The tongue of the glacier and the glacier itself are not steep. Above the place where the right and left branches of the glacier merge, there are transverse crevices. Here, rope up and go to the foot of the northern edge of Muztau. Further ascent along this edge. From the bivouac - 1.5-2 hours of walking. The further path is visible from the glacier.
The exit to the edge is through several transverse crevices and a fairly wide bergschrund, which is overcome by snow bridges. Careful belaying is required (!). Further along the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40°. At the beginning of the season, there is snow here. When exiting to the edge at the second ridge of rocks - a snow cornice (be careful!). From the second ridge of rocks along a steep ice slope, to the left of the third ridge of rocks. In some places, there are sections of at-flow ice. Cutting steps and piton belaying are required (2-3 ice screws). The next steep drop is passed in the same way.
Then there is a section of the ridge about 200 m. There are cornices. This is the most difficult and dangerous place. Steepness in some places up to 50°. Cutting steps and piton belaying are required. Ascent to a rocky ledge above the ice slope, suitable for belaying, and traverse to the southwest, bypassing the cornices, to a rock on a small saddle. From the small saddle, another 20-30 m ascent along the ice slope to the summit. Above the ice dome of the summit, in a small group of destroyed rocks, there is a cairn. The entire ascent takes 8-9 hours (descent along the ascent route).
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants - no more than 10 people.
- Initial bivouac on the terminal moraine of the Toguзак Glacier.
- Departure from the initial bivouac at 4:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2 × 30 m; b) expendable cordelette 8 m; c) ice screws 5 pcs.; d) hammers 2 pcs.