REPORT

ON THE ASCENT OF PIK BOKS VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE EASTERN WALL ROUTE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, BY THE POLITEKHNIK-6 TEAM FROM JULY 27 TO JULY 27, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

Report

On the ascent of Peak Box via the center of the eastern wall by the sports section of the "Polytechnic" alpine club on July 31, 2023

I. Climbing Report Details

Report

On the ascent of Ratzek Peak via the western ridge by the sports section of the "Polytechnic" Alpine Club on August 8, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE 3800 PEAK (IFMGA) VIA ROUTE 2A CAT. DIFF. BY THE TEAM OF а\к Политехник FROM JULY 27, 2023 TO JULY 27, 2023.

I. Climbing Passport

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, western Kokshaal-Tau
3. Peak Alpinist via the ridge
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 1220 m. Distance 1970 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty 420 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (4650–5190) 68°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 17, chocks 26, ice screws 16

1. Class: technical.
2. Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau.
3. Pik Alpinist, (5492 m) via S ridge.
4. Proposed category: 5A, combined.
5. Height difference: 1450 m, length: 2700 m. Average steepness of the rocky part is 45 degrees, snow and ice part is 30 degrees.
6. Pitons driven:
7. Climbing hours: 40 and days: 2.
8. Overnight stay: on the ridge.
9. Leader: Alexis Deschamps.
10. Participants:

Passport

1. Category — technical.
2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau.
3. Peak Alpinist via the center of the NE wall.
4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain 1219 m. Distance 1648 m. Distance of sections with 5–6B category: 792 m, of which 415 m are category 6B. Average steepness of the main part of the route (4270–4930 m) is 70°.
6. Pitons driven: rock, bolt, nuts, ice: 52/5, 0/0, 88/12, 24/0.
7. Team's total time: 45 hours and 5 days.

An isolated high peak in the spur between the middle parts of the Ototash and Nalivkin glaciers. The Pik Piramidy is separated from Obzorny peak by the P-2 pass. The summit is completely snow-ice, rock outcrops are rare even on the ridges. The ascent to the summit from the Ototash glacier takes 8–10 hours and is made along the indistinct southwestern counterfort.

ASCENT TO PIK OBZORNY FROM THE WEST (2B category)

From the camp located in the upper part of the Ototash glacier, we set out at 5:00 am. We cross the two-kilometer width of the glacier through deep snow and begin the ascent head-on. Gradually, the ice begins to emerge from under the snow, so we move to the right (to the south). At this point, the peak drops to the glacier with a steep rocky wall - the path lies along the edge formed by the cirque from the south and the glacier sliding down from the summit. Sections of uncomplicated rocks alternate with deep snow, only occasionally there are sections of ice — we try to bypass them. We move connected, but the movement is mostly simultaneous. Only at the very end of the rib, when reaching the snow dome of the summit — 2 ropes of interesting, but uncomplicated rock climbing along a not steep snowy wall.

Passport

1. High-altitude category
2. Tian-Shan, Inylchek gorge
3. Pobeda Eastern peak (7060 m) via the north face
4. Category 6B assumed, first ascent
5. Height difference 2000 m, length — 2560 m (face)
6. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories — 2540 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (5000–7000 m), including 6th category difficulty — 92° (6170–6180 m), 90° (5180–5200 m, 5830–5865 m, 6022–6040 m, 6215–6250 m, 6363–6380 m, 6945–6955 m), 80° (5055–5070 m, 5142–5160 m, 5630–5785 m, 5885–6000 m, 6930–6945 m), 75° (6965–7000 m), 70° (5800–5818 m).
7. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

XXXV USSR Alpine Championship 1984. High-altitude Class REPORT on the ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via the north face of the eastern peak (first ascent) by the team of the USSR Armed Forces Team leader: V.N. Khrishtatyy, coach: E.T. Ilyinsky, Honored Master of Sports, Honored Coach of the USSR 1984. Addresses and phone numbers:

1. Team leader - Valery Nikolayevich Khrishtatyy
   • Address: 480021, Alma-Ata, Kurganazy St., 15, apt. 8
   • Phone: 61-27-25, p. 63-39-62 Team coach - Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinsky
   • Address: 480012, Alma-Ata, Seyfullin St., 537, apt. 4